Month: December 2019

Our project takes the rather tired property mantra ‘You can’t change the location but you can change everything else’ to heart. We bought this house for its site, with lovely views front and back, large garden, its position, the village, local schools, nearby pub and all the rest of it. And we changed everything else.

Having identified a particular part of Staffordshire/Derbyshire, we kept an eye out for plots and houses of potential in three or four villages. The one we ended up buying was one we’d scanned past on Rightmove lists many times before. The images were poor and the ‘what on earth is it?’ question remained unanswered.

(MORE: Finding a Plot: All You Need to Know)

It was only when, with a deadline of our impending house sale, school admissions and Sarah’s job move bringing an exciting bit of added focus to our search, that we looked more closely. It was ugly, for sure – a late 1960s self build, natch? – but we both rather liked the long and low horizontal shape of the house and could see something there that we could build on.

Next up we decided to settle in and see what the house felt like. For a good 18 months we lived there quite miserably, agreeing on its weaknesses and eyeing up the potential changes we could make.

We put up with ant infestations and the slightly embarrassing decoration choices of previous owners; and our hero son put up with a baking hot/chillingly cold bedroom, too.

Getting to Know the House

But slowly we learned about the house. Fools rush in and all that. We identified several key problem areas: a pokey upstairs which, despite having three bedrooms, didn’t really do the 330m² house justice; generally poor energy efficiency and build quality; and the classic problem of lots of rooms coupled with an odd layout by today’s standards.

What was needed was a remodel, both inside and out, rather than an extension for extension’s sake. The house was big enough. It just didn’t work very well. In addition, of course, everything needed refurbishing and, to be frank, why would anyone want to live in a house designed for someone else?

In overall design terms, we wanted something that spoke to the origins of the house but gave us a bit of what we liked. Luckily, that all married together — we both love mid-century house design particularly with a dose of American energy.

We’d also identified a few other things we wanted to inject: internal horizontal views to make the most of the long/low shape; much-needed kerb appeal, particularly to cover up the rather dubious cladding mix; loads of light and a lovely flow; and, importantly, flexibility as our family grew here.

(MORE: How to add space and value to your home)

We needed expert design help. Pete Tonks, longtime contributor to the magazine, chum and the designer of some of my favourite homes, came up with a scheme that got us to where we could get excited, thanks in large to the addition of a crazy-but-genius glass and timber tower to the front.

(MORE: How to choose an architect)

We used a couple of other designers to shape the scheme (Pete didn’t do building drawings at the time and, anyway, we needed to bring the whole thing in a bit for budget reasons) — Aaron Chetwynd and Jon Grew, who helped immensely in bringing the project to life.

Finding the Right Builder

Securing planning permission was straightforward. We are in a conservation area but Pete’s scheme, using organic, natural materials and quite clearly an improvement on what was there before, went through in eight weeks.

(MORE: Conservation areas)

That aside, the project only really came to life for us on meeting (through recommendation) our builder, Ben Schuck. Ben is about my age and while I’ve been writing about building for the last 20 years he’s actually been building houses and specialising in timber (which would form the basis for the extended elements of the home).

He contributed massively, in two main ways. Firstly, he does what you want your builder to do: sucks up stress and solves problems. Things went awry, money was tight, we had a few head-scratching moments. Ben took all that on himself and when you’re left with half a house with no roof and a feeling that you may well have taken on too much, having someone to say “it will be fine and here’s why” is vital.

Secondly, he really took time to understand where we were coming from in design terms, and as a result the house is better because of his interest.

(MORE: How to find a builder)

We moved out for the duration of the build to our wonderfully accommodating and patient in-laws, who even cooked us meals and put up with our children.

We’re very lucky with our parents, who were more than happy to help decorate, hang doors and the like. And although there is still a way to go – with the landscaping still a major upcoming project and another, final, bit of remodelling still going on as I write – it is getting there.

We’ve been a mix of many things: lucky, determined, ambitious, brave and foolhardy occasionally, too. We’ve made some mistakes. We haven’t made a fortune by redeveloping this house in the way we might have done if we had built from scratch. But every time I see it, I feel happier.

Those little views through the internal glazing from room to room are uplifting. Every time the family gathers in that nice open kitchen I love it more. Every time I look up in the tower and see the sky through the huge rooflight I feel a little bit more alive. And that is why we do it, isn’t it?

When it comes to loft conversion ideas, the best ones alleviate space pressures on your home, while adding valuable and habitable space to the property without the need to extend. Done well, it’ll also add significant value to your home.

The best loft conversion ideas will work with the often odd angles and sloping ceilings of the space, and will include provisions for the ingress of natural light. You’ll also need to think about how you will heat and insulate the loft effectively.

If you are looking for an in-depth guide to converting your loft, check out our loft conversion beginner’s guide.

But before you begin your conversion, think carefully about the best use for the space. Here are some clever loft conversion ideas that will get those creative juices flowing.

Flood a Loft Living Room with Natural Light

An extra living room in the loft space is a great idea — perhaps you have older children who might appreciate their own space or maybe you like the idea of a second TV room or just a chill out space to escape up to at the end of a long day.

There are a couple of things to consider in a loft living space. Natural light is important here and being up high provides a great opportunity to take advantage of your views.

Think about whether you could incorporate some full-height glazing, either fixed or opening. French or sliding doors opening out to a Juliet balcony mean light, fresh air and a sense of space can all be achieved, but the feasibility of adding these will depend on the type of conversion you are carrying out.

Use Your Loft as a Place for Your Hobbies

The loft is the perfect spot for a games room, hobbies room or den. Take time to really consider what you will be using the space for — a home cinema or music room will have different lighting requirements than a hobby space, for example.

If the activities taking place here are likely to be noisy, give some thought to soundproofing. You need not only to consider footfall noise but, if you are in a terrace or semi-detached house, the transference of noise from one house to the next. There are plenty of ways to add soundproofing:

• Thermal insulation in walls, ceilings and floors provides noise insulation, as well as thermal
• High-density acoustic plasterboard acts as a good sound blocker
• A high-density acoustic membrane helps prevent sound transfer between walls and ceilings
• Mineral wool between floor joists also helps — acoustic mineral wool offers triple the density of standard loft insulation, giving a good sound absorbing layer and thermal insulation
• In music rooms, adding foam tiles to walls and ceilings will increase sound absorption
• Consider triple-glazed windows where the new room will generate high noise levels
• Use carpet as opposed to hard flooring
• Any new plumbing should include acoustic pipe insulation

Install a Loft Bar for At-Home Entertaining

If you love to entertain at home, then a home bar is a great loft conversion idea. It’ll work in any size loft space and you can use any sloping ceilings or odd angles to your advantage when it comes to storage or seating.

Go bold with colour, plants and soft furnishings, or keep things neutral for a more understated look. If you have opportunity to create a roof terrace, then choose the same flooring for both the indoor and outdoor area to make them feel like one cohesive space.

Add Outside Space with a Loft Terrace

If you really want to ramp up the wow factor of your home, then creating some outdoor space as part of your loft conversion is a sure way to do it.

Whether you are embracing upside down living or creating the ultimate master suite, this can be a great way to bring the outside in. Choose similar flooring for both the interior and the outside area to maximise the feeling of space.

Turn Your Loft into a Kid Zone

Creating a designated space where children can enjoy their toys and hobbies not only helps to keep a lid on clutter throughout the rest of the house, but can also be a great idea for a loft conversion.

Bespoke built-in storage will help to keep clutter under control, and keeping walls and floors light will help a smaller space feel bigger. Bursts of colour on feature walls (or ceiling slopes) can help to zone the room, while bean bags and cushions in contrasting colours will provide flexible comfort.

You can also add in a dedicated space for children to do their homework too.

Dedicate the Loft to a Master Bedroom

Converting a loft into a bedroom is a hugely popular choice, adding value as well as useful extra space.

Particular consideration should be given to blinds when creating a bedroom — the light that comes in from roof windows tends to be bright and you don’t want to be woken at the crack of dawn.

There are several options when it comes to choosing blinds for roof windows — but in a bedroom, a blackout blind is a must. Choose one that is designed to prevent light seeping in from the sides. Both Velux and Blinds 2go offer a large range of blackout blinds. Take a look at Velux’s blackout energy blinds which are designed to also improve window insulation and the Duo Blackout Blind which allows you to choose whether you want to completely block light or allow in softly diffused light.

You will also need to provide clothes storage. Under-eaves storage, using space too low for freestanding cupboards, rails or shelving, is a great idea. Alternatively, look into having fitted wardrobes made to suit your specific space.

Always Make Space for Bathroom Facilities

It can be really useful to locate bathroom facilities in a loft conversion. A loft bedroom usually warrants more extensive bathroom facilities, whereas a study or games room might only need a toilet and basin.

A loft bathroom doesn’t have to take up much space, but make sure there is sufficient headroom. A minimum floor space of around 1 x 2.6m is sufficient for a shower room with WC and basin — head height will be required over the shower, but the ceiling can slope where the toilet cistern is.

A bathroom with a standard-sized bath will need to be at least 1.7 x 2.3m but ceiling heights are less of a concern. You will also need to consider the expense of extending plumbing and waste pipes up into the loft, as well as incorporating ventilation in the form of an extractor fan.

Aim to keep the new soil pipe in line with the existing pipe for bathrooms on the lower floors — which is an easier task than putting in a new one. If you can’t connect into an existing soil pipe, you could use flexible bore waste pipes and a pumped unit with a macerator. It may be necessary to move the header tank for your plumbing system higher in order to create enough pressure for the new taps or showerhead in the loft. In fact, you might find you need to fit a mains pressure plumbing system, with either a combi boiler for instant hot water on demand or a boiler and unvented cylinder.

If you plan on installing a walk-in shower, use a preformed tray with an integrated trap. The whole floor will need to be tanked (this will need to extend up the walls by 100mm) so that water only escapes down the trap.

Utilise Space in Your Home Office with Bespoke Furniture

Work from home? A loft conversion is the ideal spot for a home office. A few things to consider when it comes to loft conversions intended for this use — you will need to consider where your desk will be positioned in relation to windows, and ensure you have enough power points.

Consider blinds that allow light in but prevent glare on your computer screen, such as Velux’s pleated blinds that allow in a softly diffused light.

Depending on the space you have available, you might also want to consider making space for a small kitchenette or toilet to avoid going up and down the stairs too regularly.

Jo Dyson has completely redesigned her London flat, creating a ‘reverse living’ loft extension, with the bedrooms and bathroom on the first floor and the kitchen and living space on the new top floor.

The new loft space now houses an open plan living room, kitchen and dining area, with bi-fold doors opening onto the south-facing roof terrace.

On warmer days, when the bi-fold doors are pushed back, it joins the living room to the outside and creates a feeling of an extended relaxing space.

(MORE: How to get open plan design right)

Main image: Velux

Britain has room for improvement in its DIY knowledge after a survey revealed 92% of respondents could only name four out of 15 ‘handyman’ tools correctly. 

The survey from tradespeople directory MyJobQuote.co.uk surveyed 1,073 Brits to determine their DIY tools awareness. 

The most recognisable tools were chainsaw (recognised by 100% of respondents), hammer (100% of respondents), screwdriver (100% of respondents), and drill (97% of respondents). Indeed, 3% of respondents weren’t able to name a drill when shown a picture of one.

More than half of people in the UK avoid DIY, according to a report from last year, and this was illustrated by only 2% of respondents being able to name more than 10 of the 15 tools. 

The most difficult tools to name were: 

• Calliper (named by less than 1%)
• Bench vise (1%)
• Stud finder (less than 2%)
• Bar clamp (2%)

Men named the correct tool 6% of the time, on average, while women named the correct tool around 2% of the time. 

When to do it Yourself

You may be able to make significant cost savings on your next self build or renovation project by choosing to go it alone on DIY. Many choose to hire professionals for renovations or home improvements, but DIY can help to cut costs on a building project, and end up adding overall value to the property. 

It can also eliminate costs you would otherwise pay for labour. Research by Homebuilding & Renovating shows that this typically accounts for between 45-60% of total costs.  

However, it’s important to only commit to DIY projects you are confident and experienced in, and know what to leave to the professionals.

In the summer of 1990, a weighty tome entitled Individual Homes landed on the newsstand. Brought into fruition by founding editor Peter Harris, the magazine’s aim was simple: to educate and inspire those hoping to create a one-off home — whether that involved building a new home, renovating a house (or extending an existing property), or converting a redundant building into a dwelling.

By autumn 1997, the quarterly title had become a monthly magazine, had a new editor, Michael Holmes (who remains a cornerstone of our shows to this day), and a new name: Homebuilding & Renovating. However, the ethos of the magazine remained the same.

Over the years, the magazine and its readers have weathered a major recession, numerous revisions to planning permission rules and building legislation (both good and bad), changing design trends and a long succession of housing ministers — and governments for that matter.

And the self build and renovation market continues to grow and evolve to this day. The emergence of Graven Hill, a large-scale self build site, for instance, would have been unheard of back in 1990, but is testament to just how far the industry has come.

What has remained a constant is the pioneering spirit of the self-builder and renovator — a willingness to push the boundaries and to tread the often challenging but rewarding path to creating an individual home.

Homebuilding & Renovating has grown into so much more than a magazine over the last 30 years, too. Our eight UK Shows, this website, our plotfinding service (Plotfinder.net) and more recently, video and social media channels, mean we’re now on hand 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, should you need us.

Over the next 12 months, we’ll be sharing some of our favourite memories and bringing you special content to mark the occasion.

Thank you for celebrating with us.

Our Anniversary Partners

When it comes to home security, prevention is better than cure. If you’re investing time and money into a homebuilding or renovation project, it follows that you’d want to do everything possible to protect your dream home and its contents. Plus, you have a golden opportunity to design security measures into the property from the outset.

The good news is that the number of domestic burglaries reported to police in England and Wales fell by 3% between April 2018 and March 2019, according to figures from the Office for National Statistics. However, with a total of 422,870 offences reported by homeowners in this period, that’s still an average of 1,159 a day.

With this in mind, this guide will take you through the basics when it comes to home security. From the positioning of your house on the plot to incorporating state-of-the-art smart security systems, we’ve got you covered.

1. Consider Your Home’s Position

If you’re planning to self build, security will be one of your designer’s considerations when it comes to assessing how the property should be oriented on the land. Your architect should be able to identify any vulnerable areas – primarily the spots where intruders could gain access to the site – and come up with creative solutions to help offset the risk of unwanted visitors.

Stand outside your house or on your plot and look at it through a burglar’s eyes:

• Would it be easy to get in around the back?
• Are there any hiding places behind hedges or outbuildings where a burglar would not be detected?

(MORE: Finding a Plot: The Complete Guide)

2. Secure the Boundaries

Establishing a secure perimeter around your plot will not only provide a physical barrier for unwanted visitors to overcome but can also act as a deterrent to opportunists.

Timber fence panels provide the most cost-effective solution. These should stand at least 1m high to the front of the property and 1.8m high around the rest of the plot’s boundary.

Installing higher fences at particularly vulnerable parts of the plot can be a smart way to deter intruders. “You can then stagger the heights down to a more traditional level or cut a gentle curve to the top of the boards to create a subtle and elegant feel to the boundary,” says Harry Reece.

Brick and stone walls provide a robust, long-lasting solution; however, there will be a cost for extra labour. Incorporating a trellis with roses growing up it can be another alternative to deter people from climbing up.

If anyone tries to jump the wall and breaks the trellis, they’ll be heard. Planting will also soften the overall aesthetic of your perimeter. Lockable manual or electronic gates can also be incorporated.

3. Landscaping Tips

When it comes to choosing hard landscaping, laying gravel or wood chippings can be a powerful deterrent to burglars. The crunching sound underfoot can alert occupants to the presence of any unwanted guests.

Defensive gardening – planting thorny shrubs around the borders of your plot, for example – can also be a great help when it comes to putting off opportunists.

But it can be a delicate balance: remember that all hedges should be trimmed back so your house is not completely hidden from view. Plus, you don’t want the planting or landscaping to provide a convenient hiding place that allows burglars to remain on your property undetected.

(MORE: Guide to Choosing a Driveway)

4. Exterior Illumination

While motion detector floodlights might be the kneejerk solution when it comes to installing exterior security lighting, they can sometimes end up being more of a hindrance than a help — particularly if they’re repeatedly activated by local wildlife passing through your garden at night.

“There’s a wealth of large and ugly floodlights on the market, which is what most people expect from security lighting,” says Sian Parsons, a senior designer at John Cullen Lighting. “But you can find more discreet options, like spike floodlights in a dark colour (such as our olive green Kew and Hampton lights), which give a lovely wash of uplight to trees or the façade of a property while remaining hidden in planting.”

Setting these fittings up with a motion sensor might offer a greater shock to burglars when they’re activated, as they can’t be seen as easily as floodlights affixed to the exterior walls of your home.

If your aim is to discourage potential intruders from approaching your house entirely, an alternative route might be advisable. “In town houses, it can be best to play down the lighting to the façade of the house, as it can encourage unwanted visitors,” says Sian Parsons.

“Keeping things low level with path indicators that lead you to the front door and aren’t visible from the street can be a beautiful and discreet option.”

5. Consider the Interior Layout

Security should be a key consideration when it comes to planning the configuration of the rooms in your house.

Your first objective should be to discourage potential intruders by establishing a sense of occupancy that is evident from the outside. Rooms that are used most should provide good visibility of the perimeter and any guests (welcome or unwelcome) approaching the house.

Open plan layouts are popular choices. They not only allow for plenty of natural light but provide clear views out to the front and the back to see anyone arriving or leaving.

Consider whether you will be able to incorporate clear sightlines from the upstairs landing to the driveway and rear garden as a deterrent, too. 

6. Focus on Entry Points

It’s a sobering fact that most intruders gain access to the home via doors, either by forcing the locks or kicking the door in completely. Therefore, it’s important to ensure your property is kitted out with dependable fenestration that can withstand an attempted break in.

“All accessible doors and windows on a new build property in England will be subject to Document Q of Building Regulations, which means they must be sufficiently secure to withstand a manual attack,” says Matt Higgs, director of Kloeber. “The stipulations of this criteria can be met through testing such as PAS24:2016.”

For peace of mind, look out for products that come with Secured By Design accreditation — a police-led initiative that focuses on designing out crime. To achieve this certification, items undergo rigorous testing to ensure they meet the required security standards.

“For front doors, multi-point locking is always advisable,” says Matt Higgs. “Glass in your front door should be laminated, too. This means that when it’s broken it holds its form, rather than shattering so intruders can gain access.”

The product you choose should be of solid core construction and fitted with a high security deadlock, in addition to a latch. “The door should be able to last for three minutes or more under manual attack, as this is the amount of time an opportunist burglar will generally take before giving up and moving on,” says Matt Higgs.

Remember to pay attention to glazed doors and windows, too. Units in accessible areas and on the ground floor should be fitted with laminated glass.

7. Smart Security Solutions

Arming your property with a burglar alarm is a must if you’re serious about safeguarding it from intruders. All homes need different levels of protection depending on their size, location and how often they’ll be occupied, so it might be that a smart system offers a better fit for your lifestyle.

A raft of options are available, operable via a few swipes on the screen of your smartphone. Your basic starter kit will include a combination of cameras, an alarm, door locks and motion detectors. The setup should also include sensors that detect when a window or door has been opened.

“Niko Home Control offers fantastic features that you might not even consider as security measures, such as motion detection and simulation using lighting and music,” says Andy Moss, managing director of Moss Technical, Niko Home Control UK suppliers. The system comes with a state-of-the-art video system that allows you to see real-time footage of the exterior of your house, as well as allowing you to enable trusted visitors into the house via your smartphone.

“There’s also a ‘panic’ button that can be pressed in case of emergency, lighting up the entire house. This allows residents to see what’s going on and allows them to exit safely,” adds Andy Moss. Most setups can also be programmed so that they work alongside your smart heating and lighting systems, too.

Some products can also be programmed to learn your daily routine, so when you’re out of the house or on holiday, they can replicate your movements around the property using lighting and music, creating the impression that someone is in.

8. Contingency Plan

If laying out your floorplan to create a sense of occupancy is your primary objective, creating a safe place to retreat to in case of a break in might be the second.

Secure panic rooms are on the rise, particularly in larger homes and bespoke builds. This steel-lined zone should be able to withstand fires, too. The key is to create a centrally-located  and inconspicuous space that everyone in your family can access. 

An effective panic room will be formed from a steel frame structure that is fixed to the walls of your house so the weight and loading will need to be carefully considered by your architect. The room will need to be adequately ventilated with a means of connection to the local police force within the room, too.

“Based on the metal lining, don’t rely on mobile phone signal,” advises Harry Reece.

Main image: Base Architecture

The most destructive Christmas film has been named according to how much it would cost to repair the damage caused. John McClane, take a bow. 

Yes, Die Hard is the most destructive Christmas film (and yes, it most certainly is a Christmas film), causing £15,192,394 worth of damage, according to research by Rated People.

Rated People sent an expert panel of tradespeople a summary of every single piece of damage that took place in the films. The panel included an electrician, decorator, plumber, glazier and a builder, who quoted for each piece of damage as if it was requested by a real customer. 

Die Hard topped the carnage chart by almost a whole £15m, due to the damage caused to the iconic Nakatomi Plaza office block and its surroundings. 

Coming in second with £544,415 of damage was Gremlins. Home Alone 2 (£217,730) came in third, The Grinch (£152,815) was in fourth and known renegade Paddington (£34,457) came in fifth.

(MORE: 9 Inspiring Budget Renovation Projects)

What Will Your Renovation Cost?

If you’re planning on renovating a house in 2020, don’t be too perturbed by these findings. While renovation projects have a bit of a reputation for being money-guzzling projects, there are numerous ways that your can tackle the project without breaking the bank. 

Acting as a project manager, shopping around and always getting multiple quotes will help you to keep costs under control.

(MORE: 10 Ways to Renovate on a Budget)

Want to know how to build a house on a budget? Building your own home will probably be the single largest expenditure of your life, but it doesn’t mean that it is prohibitively expensive. Many who self build manage to build a house tailored to their exact needs and desires for under under £150,000.

To do it yourself, you will need to exercise strict cost control and keep budgeting throughout the build to prevent costs from spiralling out of control. It’ll also help to take on as much as you can on a DIY basis, build something relatively small and simple, and avoid false economies. But luckily, with these tips in mind, you can keep costs low without compromising on quality.

If you are looking for ideas on how to build a house for under £150,000, follow these practical tips to keep a handle on your costs throughout your project.

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1. Build a Small House to Keep Costs Down

How to build a house for under £150,000? Build a relatively small one. The bigger the house, the more bricks, blocks, flooring, roof tiles (and so on) will be required.

But it is worth bearing in mind that a small self build house, around 150m², would still be larger than a typical four-bedroom developer home, which might be no more than 100m².

(MORE: 15 self build projects that are 100m² or less)

2. Save Money by Opting for a Simple Design

If you build a house with a complicated design, it is likely to increase both your labour and material costs so it is best avoided if you want to keep costs low.

Georgian-style houses are great examples of elegant yet simple designs that are usually based on a simple box shape.

Think about your specification too. Working at saving on the basics doesn’t mean that you have to completely ignore all the new ideas and products that you will come across in your research phase, but before you commit yourselves to spending your limited funds on what might be classed as ‘things you want,’ just make sure you have all the ‘things you need’ covered first.

3. How to Build a House on a Budget: Minimise Groundworks

If you can find a flat and serviced plot, this can be a great way to get your cost-cutting off to a flying start. It might seem obvious, but the less groundwork your build requires, the further your budget will go. Bear in mind you can buy plots at various stages of servicing and planning, and this can also limit your initial outlays.

4. Hire a Structural Engineer Early On

Another tip for how to build a house on a budget is to hire a structural engineer early on in your project. When you build a house, you know you’ll be paying for the services of a structural engineer at some point, and as their fee is based on the overall build cost, you might as well hire them at the earliest opportunity.

Your engineer can iron out structural problems while in constant dialogue with your architect, ensuring your design is thoroughly thought out before building work commences. It is vital that your design is fixed before starting any build work — changes on paper are cheaper than changes on site.

5. Invest in the Fabric for Long-Term Savings

Always look to invest your budget in the fabric of the building. The fabric-first approach can have a knock-on effect regarding how much you spend on other aspects of your build.

Opting for a highly energy-efficient and airtight build method, like SIPs or a closed-panel kit, can save you further on materials such as insulation, and potentially on the equipment required for your heating system. What’s more, the more heat your home retains, the less you have to pay in heating it.

(MORE: The complete guide to self build)

6. DIY What You Can to Keep Costs Down

Those who know how to build a house on a budget will likely all suggest that if you want to do the same, you need to be prepared to get stuck in.

The general rule is that if you get someone else to do it for you, you will pay a premium. (But do only take on tasks that you can complete competently and safely, otherwise it will be a false economy).

Areas you could do yourself include:

(MORE: The tasks best left to the professionals)

You’ll spend around 15% of your build costs on the external wall and, metre for metre, blockwork is considered to be the cheapest.

Bear in mind, however, that alternative walling systems (timber, SIPs, ICF) offer different qualities that might reduce your expenditure in other aspects — particularly insulation.

In reality, the simple methods and materials that housebuilders have been using over many years are also usually the best options if you are on a tight budget. The fact is that if a product or system is commonly and widely used across the industry and across the country, there will be more people providing it and there will therefore naturally be more competition on price.

If you spend as much of your free time as possible in the early stages getting and comparing quotes for all the basic materials and services you are going to need, from as wide a selection of sources as possible, you will usually be surprised at the price variances.

8. Kitchens: Mix Basics with Luxury

Another tip for how to build a house on a budget is to consider the kitchen. Your kitchen is a great place to reduce some costs without compromising on style or quality.

• Go to a smaller local firm for low-cost, high-quality units. Suppliers such as Pineland Furniture will be able to supply units with no chipboard or ply for less than £5,000 — cheaper if you paint them yourself
• Pick out the better ranges at high street names. The mainstream kitchen suppliers offer impressive ranges. Make the most of (almost-constant) sales or be prepared to negotiate
• Mix basic and luxury fittings. You can pick out standard carcasses from trade outfits and mix them with doors from high-end suppliers; you could mix standard units from Wickes with top-quality handles and worktops

(MORE: How to get a new kitchen for under £5k)

9. Save Money by Taking a Different Design Approach

Go to a recognised architect and you’ll expect to pay 10% of your build costs in design fees — that’s £15,000 on a project that probably doesn’t warrant this type of expenditure.

Architects really add value to projects where design is the number one priority, not budget.

Those looking to spend less than £150,000 shouldn’t forgo the design process but they should take a different approach. Start the process off with a pretty good idea of the kind of house you’d like to build.

Take those formulated ideas to someone with design skills but without the ‘Architect’ title — perhaps an architectural technologist or skilled local house designer (speak to local builders to get a few recommendations), who can then draw up workable planning and Building Regulations drawings for you.

This process will potentially save you £1,000s at the start of your project.

(MORE: 20 Homes Built for Under £200k)

10. Clad Your Home Economically

When it comes to cladding, budget self builders will find either a blockwork/render or brick outer skin the most economical of all.

Timber framers looking to spend less on their cladding will find weatherboarding the most efficient and economical way of constructing that outer shell.

Of course, there are many choices when it comes to render solutions, but you should expect to pay £75/m² facing (it can go up to £125/m² with one of the anti-crack, self-coloured systems).

Those using brick should avoid the very basic wirecut facings but should be able to find attractive bricks at £300/m². You could also inject a bit of instant character by mixing together two or three stock bricks, which doesn’t cost any more than a uniform selection.

Those in a stone belt might be able to save money by specifying reconstituted stone but if planners insist on real local stone, try specifying it as a half-cut facing (similar to a brick slip) to save money on materials. Unfortunately, a lot of the cost of stone is in the laying, which you won’t be able to avoid.

11. How to Build a House on a Budget: Avoid False Economies

When thinking about how to build a house on a budget, it is all about choosing the right design options that have significant cost-saving implications.

Do You Need a Chimney?

For example, very few ordinary developer houses have regular chimney stacks — as many houses so rarely have traditional open fires these days, a traditional chimney is not essential. Replacing a chimney with an exhaust vent terminating at a subtle roof grille will save between £2-5,000.

Roof Trusses

If you’re really keen to save every penny, you’ll also be interested to learn that most developers put in conventional ‘fink’ roof trusses rather than attic trusses (which allow the attic space to be used as a room) — it can save between £1-3,000. But if you want to convert your roof into living space in the future, fink roof trusses are difficult to reverse and a false economy.

Go for an Attached Garage

Another significant saving that can be enjoyed with less implications down the line is to specify an attached rather than detached garage. Not only is there a saving on basic structural material costs, but it’s much easier for electricians to lay on services to an attached garage rather than one 5m from the rest of the house. You should be able to save £2-5,000 this way.

Heating Choices

Another potential saving is in the heating system — owing to the huge variety of options now available. A top-of-the-range heating system, complete with underfloor heating, designer towel rails, controls and a high-quality boiler, could easily cost £5-7,000 (unfitted).

A basic setup, however, with a standard condensing boiler and cheap radiators, will cost in the region of £1,500-2,000 (unfitted).

Think Twice About Including Bay Windows

Here’s why — you’ll need three windows instead of one; they require more work underground to form the foundations; you’ll need special corner bricks and special lintels; an insulated, (usually) tiled roof and internal ceiling are probably needed; and expensive lead flashings and cavity trays have to be handmade and fitted.

12. Beware the Hidden Costs When Building a House

Another tip for how to build a house on a budget is to be savvy with the less obvious costs — the more time on site, the more you’ll pay for site insurance, site facilities hire, and the likes of scaffolding, for example. Depending on the length of time you anticipate your build taking, look into buying a set of scaffolding for the duration of your project, then selling it on after.

If you hire scaffolding, you will spend a lot more on it over those weeks than it costs to buy it outright, and you won’t get any of that money back! This tip can be applied to other things you might hire — diggers, for example.

The length of time your build is on site will also have an effect on your own living costs — you may be renting accommodation following the sale of your previous home, so the quicker you can get into your new one, the better.

13. Don’t Be Afraid to Negotiate for Bargains

Being clever with your materials shopping – and playing suppliers off against each other – can save £1,000s on the bigger purchases.

Use the internet to research prices and don’t be afraid to negotiate. Of course, this all means that it’s much better to buy your own materials — it’s both unlikely that a builder will negotiate as hard on your behalf and also that they will pass on the full benefits of cost reductions.

Don’t forget, too, that you’re in the market for labour as well as materials. It pays to contact a range of local tradesmen in order to do this – “X down the road says he’ll do it for £100 a day…” – but bear in mind that if you end up paying ridiculously under a reasonable rate, the tradesman will simply move onto a better paying job if, and when, it comes up.

14. Keep Landscaping Simple

Turf the Gardens

To turf all your garden areas, just level, rake to remove stones then roll — and get the turf ordered. It’s a really cost-effective way to create a great-looking garden.

Go for Gravel

Pathways and even your driveway can be finished in gravel to give a very pleasing aesthetic. There are many types and colours to choose from and you can mix and match to create some nice effects. Always try to order full loads rather than the tonne bags — this will save you a lot of money.

Patios

 2” by 2” concrete riven-effect slabs can be bought for just a few pounds each and will quickly give you a decent patio area. If you are feeling brave, you could try laying them yourself too.

Fencing

 Post and rail fencing usually comprises 4” treated posts at 6’ to 8’ centres with 4” by 2” treated timbers simply nailed to them. Using metal spikes instead of concrete to set the posts will make it a faster, easier and cheaper job which you may be able to do yourself.

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With thanks also to Alan Corfield for his contribution to this article.