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Plaster gives a smooth finish to walls and ceilings and is hard-wearing too.Yet, over time, damage can inevitably occur as furniture gets moved around, walls knocked and the like.

In general, damage to traditionally plastered walls comes in the form of cracks, missing chunks or damaged corners, while plasterboard damage is normally limited to holes. Skimmed plasterboard can also develop hairline cracks.

One of the most common causes of damage occurs when stripping off wallpaper. You can end up with a wall that looks like its been peppered with bullets. In this case, it will be  better to call in a professional plasterer skim over the whole wall — unless you are planning on papering over it.

You can expect to pay around £12/m², more if you start adding other small plaster repairs you have about your house. For these small jobs you will be better off going down the DIY route — we show you how it’s done.

Equipment list

Tools

• Stanley-type knife
• Bucket for mixing plaster
• Smaller plastic pot or tray for mixing filler
• Small filler ‘knife
• Plastering float
• Hawk
• Hammer
• Chisel

Materials

• Plaster
• Powder-based filler
• Masking tape
• Builders’ ‘instant grab’ -type adhesive
• Plasterboard offcuts
• Screws
• PVA

Repairing cracks

1. Before you start on any of the jobs below, put down a dust sheet.

2. Dig out cracks in plaster with a Stanley-type knife. You’ll need to cut in until you can no longer see the original crack. By using the blade like this you end up with a V-shaped groove which is ideal for taking the filler.

3. When you have dug the cracks out, vacuum out any dust and debris so the groove is clean.

4. For vertical and overhead filling jobs (i.e. most of them), mix the filler powder with water until it becomes a stiff paste. How stiff? We reckon its ready to use when you can do this with a filler-knife full and the filler doesn’t fall to the floor.

5. Lightly dampen the area to be filled with a plant sprayer. This helps the filler to stick.

6. Spread the filler into the groove making sure that it has gone right to the bottom. Leave the filler a little proud over the groove but remove the excess either side before the filler dries. Once dry, rub the area down with medium-grade sandpaper, then fine-grade before decorating.

Corner damage

7. Damage like this is pretty common. Just applying filler and hoping for the best rarely works because gravity just drags the filler downwards. Repaired corners are also vulnerable to people walking past and knocking them. To fix a corner like this, first mix up your filler as in step four (ABOVE), then…

8. Apply the filler to the corner and get the shape roughly correct. Then put some wide masking tape over both sides of the corner and leave the filler to dry. The tape protects the filler and keeps it in shape. A light sanding later on will deliver the perfect corner repair. Larger areas of missing corner can be repaired using a plastering corner bead which is fixed to the wall below the level of the existing plaster and then plastered (rather than filled) up to.

Chunks of missing plaster

9. Chunks fall out of plaster walls for a number of reasons: household clumsiness is one contributory factor, but fitting or adjusting a door frame (as here) can create a real mess. This sort of damage is best repaired with a couple of coats of plaster rather than a hit it and quit filler approach.

10. First remove any loose chunks of plaster use a hammer and chisel if necessary then vacuum out the area to get rid of the dust and debris.

11. Brush in a PVA mix to give the plaster the best possible chance of bonding with the existing wall.

12. Mix up plaster according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It should be smooth, lump free and not too runny. Next, apply a thin coat of plaster (2-3mm) onto the area to be repaired. Don’t try to fill the whole thing at once or the plaster will just dribble out of the repair.

13. When the plaster starts to dry, lightly scratch the surface with the end of the trowel in this pattern.

14. Once the first coat is dry, mix up plaster as before and use a plastering float to apply. Once the shape is correct, leave the job alone for ten minutes then wet the float and smooth the surface over

Holes in plasterboard

15. Holes like these are awkward to fix because there’s often a void behind the board so any filler you put in just disappears. This hole came about when a plumber couldn’t decide where to feed the pipes for a radiator. But fixing holes in plasterboard can be achieved easily…

16. Cut a piece of plasterboard that is the same width but around 25mm longer than the hole. Squeeze on some ‘instant grab’ around the edge of the board and then wind in a long screw to the centre of the repair piece.

17. Jiggle the plasterboard repair piece into the hole and hold it in place for a few seconds to give the adhesive time to ‘grab’. Once the adhesive has dried, fully apply filler on top of the plasterboard insert to bring the repair flush.

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The Covid-19 pandemic has prompted one in 12 households to invest significant funding into a new home office, research shows.

The findings, from AA Financial Services, reveal how much money is being spent across the UK so people can improve their conditions while working from home.

The average amount being spent, which took into consideration any decorating, new equipment or furniture, or the possibility of converting another room, is £1,759.

Londoners meanwhile are spending over double the amount (an average of £2,769) than in other parts of the UK (the average in Scotland, for example, is £872).

Around 17% were taking out loans to cover the cost of renovations, with 14% admitting to putting it on their credit card. 

(MORE: Renovation Mortgage: Do You Need One?)

James Fairclough, director of AA Financial Services, said: “The prolonged and indefinite period lockdown could be the catalyst for a number of home improvements across the nation – particularly now with question marks shrouding the housing market once again.

“In the current climate, with more time to complete the work, this presents people with a good opportunity to get a few jobs done. If you are at home with your family, the key is to maximise the space so that you can work comfortably and efficiently during this time.”

Create the Optimal Home Office

Working from home can be enjoyable for many providing your environment is tailored to your needs. And creating the optimal space for a dedicated home office is a great idea. 

(MORE: 12 Home Office Design Ideas)

If you have a room that isn’t used very often, or is used for storage, such as a spare room or garden room, consider setting up your home office there. Working from the corner of a spare room, kitchen or living room can be suitable in the short term, but is, in most cases, impractical in the long term. 

Here’s some tips to help you create your home office:

• Make sure you have adequate natural light and consider adding some task lighting (which is useful if working later in the evening)
• Avoid placing your desk in such a way that your computer will face a window  – on sunny days the glare can make it hard to see the screen
• Ensure you have adequate power points and a good wifi signal 
• If you have the space, choosing a room for your office which is located close to or with an adjoining WC helps to minimise the risk of household distractions
• If you are moving your home office into a storage room, you’ll want to remove the stored items in advance, helping you to optimise the space. These storage ideas will get you started.

If you need to shut yourself away from the rest of the house, a loft space is a good candidate, but unless it has already been converted, this is a relatively expensive solution.

(MORE: Loft Conversion: Beginner’s Guide to Extending Up)

Add an Outbuilding for a Home Office

If you’re struggling to find the ideal home office within your home, consider moving the office into your garden. A garden room or outbuilding can make a great home office – as it’s separate from the rest of the home, you can avoid unnecessary distractions. 

You’ll need to make sure it has sufficient electricity supply and sockets, suitable lighting and heating options and reliable internet access. 

(MORE: The DIY Jobs That Could Save you £100s During Coronavirus Lockdown)

Good insulation is also a must if you want to use a garden office all year round, as is lighting (an electrician should be able to connect an outbuilding to the electricity in the house fairly easily), sockets and a heat source. Think too about double glazing and good security measures.

It’s been more than three weeks since the government introduced lockdown measures to combat the spread of Covid-19, and builders merchants, DIY stores, and the rest of us, have been forced to adapt. But renovators can still obtain essential DIY products, providing you know where to look. 

Merchants are regularly updating their websites with the capacity they are operating at and what services they are offering, but getting key DIY materials such hardware, landscaping materials and decorating products is certainly not as easy as it was. 

Some merchants are well-stocked, but being able to buy these materials and get them to your home will depend not just on the stock available but also merchants’ delivery and/or collection policies.

(MORE: Check out Home School – for all you need to plan your next project while on lockdown)

Here are some of the major builders’ merchants which remain operational in some capacity for customers, either through Click & Collect or home delivery:

B&Q

The first thing to note when you enter the B&Q website is that you have to join a queue, and this can take more than an hour, depending on the time of day you join. If you’re just looking to browse, you may be best looking elsewhere.

Click & Collect or home delivery? B&Q is still operating Click & Collect (typically providing allocated time slots for collection) and home delivery services on a limited range of products. However, on some products, the next dates available for delivery are generally not for a couple of weeks.

What can I buy? Paint, sand and cement are among the widely available products, but there is a reduced supply of hardware, plumbing, electrical, central heating and boiler parts, as well as light bulbs, tools and security.

What can’t I buy? Plasterboard supplies are lower than usual, but B&Q expects stock levels to return normal by the end of April.

Homebase

There is good stock availability throughout the Homebase site, including on paint, fencing panels, tools and hardware. 

Click & Collect or home delivery? All of Homebase’s stores are closed for the time being, so click & collect is not available. Delivery is available, although dates range anywhere between 3-21 days, and delivery costs can be up to £12.50. Some items may also be delivered separately.

What can’t I buy? There are currently no sand and cement products available, but there don’t seem to be any major restrictions on orders.

(MORE: The DIY Jobs That Could Save you £100s During Coronavirus Lockdown)

Toolstation

One notable benefit from using Toolstation is that it still delivering to build sites, which is particularly useful to those in the midst of self builds or renovations.

Click & Collect or home delivery? Both. Next Business Day Delivery to your home or a build site within 24 hours is available for certain products. The cost of delivery will depend on the price of your purchase (spending more than £10 or over costs less than spending less than £10).

What can I buy? There are discounts of up to 25% on paint, and up to 35% off on screws and fixings. Fence panels, plasterboard fixings, and hand and power tools are generally in good supply.

What else should I know? Some delivery times can increase noticeably, for example, expect a 21-day delivery time if you are ordering fence panels. 

Screwfix

Click & Collect or home delivery? Both are available. While next day delivery is applicable on certain products, there is a blanket £5 delivery fee on all orders below £50. Delivery is free for any order above £50.

What can’t I buy? Paint is available for Click & Collect but very limited delivery is on offer (however, you can buy two for £36 on selected paints). There are also limited supplies across sand and cement, and fencing panels. 

What else should I know? Decking is available, but there’s a 14-day wait for deliveries.

Wickes

Click & Collect or home delivery? Wickes is offering Click & Collect and delivery on a limited selection of products.

What can’t I buy? While there don’t seem to be anything specific restrictions on products, Wickes is currently experiencing shortages of a number of products. These include paint, paint brushes and some tools.

What else should I know? Like B&Q, Wickes puts customers in a queue to access the website. The wait is mercifully much shorter, around 10-15 minutes. You will then have 10 minutes to access the site, and once on the site you can take as long as you need. 

John Lewis

Click & Collect or home delivery? Next day delivery is available for some products, otherwise standard delivery in the UK is within seven days. Delivery is free on orders over £50, otherwise £3.50. Click & Collect is free on orders over £30, but is only running from Waitrose, Booths and Co-Op stores. 

What can I buy? It might not be the first name that comes to mind when you need DIY products, John Lewis has an extensive range of wallpaper, paint and also stocks some power tools. 

What can’t I buy? You’ll probably want to shop elsewhere if you’re looking for screws, fixings, wood, plumbing and boiler parts.

Bradfords

Bradfords is only offering quick response on basic essentials, such as sealants, power tools, screws and fixings. These are however both from Click & Collect and delivery services. 

Which Merchants Are Closed?

Currently, many building merchants are only offering essential services only (for infrastructure and services helping to combat the Covid-10 pandemic). These include:

Some chose to suspend trading with immediate effect following the introduction of lockdown measures, such as Selco and Huws Gray. 

Be sure to follow our live updates on merchants’ capacity and supplies throughout lockdown.

Knowing how to build garden steps can allow you to transform the enjoyment and functionality of a garden. Whether you’re looking at adjusting a slope for more practical use in wetter months, or building freestanding access alongside a walled garden or down a terraced lawn, this step-by-step guide (no pun intended) on how to build garden steps will help you assess what’s involved, what tools you need and how to get started.

Essential Toolkit for Building Garden Steps

• Tape measure
• String lines
• Pegs
• Shovel
• Bricks
• Slab
• Mortar
• Gravel
• Concrete
• Spirit level

How Deep Should Garden Steps be?

The steps will need to be at least 300mm (12in) by 600mm (2ft) in width. If you want the steps to be wide enough for two people walking side by side, then they’ll have to be 1.5m (5ft) in width The height of the rise will need to be at most 200mm (8in). Frost-resistant bricks are mostly used to build garden steps

How to Build Garden Steps on a Slope

Step 1

When building steps into a slope, you first start by measuring the vertical height of the slope and marking it with two parallel string lines. Next, attach a string line at the top of the slope and hold it horizontally; measure the height and length of the flight. Then, divide the height measurement by 200mm (8in) to work our how many steps you’ll need. Divide this number by the height to determine each step’s depth. Set the lines across to mark the step.

Step 2

Dig the step shapes from the top of the flight, working downwards step by step. Once you have reached the bottom, dig a shallow trench and lay a concrete foundation. This strip of foundation will have to measure about 100mm (4in) thick and 300mm (12in) wide.

Step 3

Allow the foundation harden for 48 hours before laying two courses of bricks onto the concrete strip, and backfill with gravel.

Step 4

Apply mortar, using the trowel to the top of the brickwork. Position the first slab on the mortar bed and tamp down. Using a spirit level, check that the steps are level.

Step 5

Continue to build the second riser on the back edge of the first tread, backfill and lay the slab to form the second tread as in previous step.

Repeat this process until you have reached the top of the flight.

How to Build Freestanding Garden Steps

Step 1

Firstly begin by determining the number of risers, through measuring the height of the flight and dividing it by 200mm (8in). The tread should measure 300mm (12in) in depth.

Step 2

Lay out some bricks on the lower level, so you can envisage how the flight will look.

Step 3

The flight will need a firm foundation to support the step and its risers, so lay a concrete slab of 100mm (4in).

Step 4

Now set up string lines across the slab and lay the first two courses of bricks.

Step 5

Next build the brickwork off the foundation slab within the perimeter wall to support the other risers in the flight. Fill the first riser with gravel and top it with a layer of fine concrete. Next build the other risers and the perimeter wall until the outline of the flight is complete and backfill behind the risers.

Step 6

Layer the slabs forming the steps and tamp them down. Check to see if it is level, by using a spirit level.

Creating extra storage or a new habitable space by insulating a loft and transforming it into something more usable is a smart way to ease pressures on the rest of your home. But first, you will need to ensure you’re insulating in line with guidance laid out in the Building Regulations, taking material and fire-resistance into account.

Here, in our beginner’s guide on how to insulate a loft, you’ll find expert advice on which type of insulation would work best, where to put it and a practical step-by-step guide on how to fit roof insulation.

Where Should I Fit the Insulation When Insulating my Loft?

There are actually three levels where you can fit the insulation, and the choice will depend on what the loft will be used for, but a combination of two could be needed to meet requirements. If the loft is going to be used as living space, then the insulation should be placed at rafter level to create a warm roof. But if you plan to use your loft for storage only, then a conventional cold roof option (where the mineral wool insulation rolls are placed in-between the ceiling joists above the top floor).

Insulating a Loft Between the Rafters

If insulation is placed exclusively between the rafters, they will have to be very deep to ensure you can fit the required depth of insulation (the very best phenolic foam insulation will have to be 125mm deep to meet Building Regs requirements). With this installation method, there is a danger of minor condensation caused by cold bridges at the position of the rafters. This moisture could lead to discolouration of the internal decoration.

Fitting Insulation Over the Rafters

Fitting a continuous layer of insulation over the rafters  will solve the issue of cold bridging, but is only an option on new builds or renovations where the roof tiles are being stripped and relaid. Even then, the depth of insulation now required to meet the Regulations means that very large fascia boards and wide soffits are required.

Insulating Beneath the Rafters

This loft insulation method also solves the issue of cold bridging, but can restrict headroom. This problem can usually be designed out in a new build, but may cause an issue when an existing roof is to be converted.

What Material is Best for Loft Insulation?

There a numerous options when choosing the material with which to insulate a loft and they all differ from one another. Firstly, materials have three different types of stiffness: they can be rigid (e.g. polystyrene boards), semi-rigid (e.g. mineral wood boards), and soft (such as the familiar rolls of loft quilt that can be stuffed into voids between rafters). There are also loose-fill materials like cellulose and polystyrene beads that can be blown-in (see more below). 

Polyurethane Insulations

If space is at a premium, there are a number of plastic foam, polyurethane-type materials that are gas based. The best known are Celotex and Kingspan. While they tend to be expensive, these are considerably better than air-based insulants such as mineral wool.

Extruded Polystyrene

This is denser than the expanded version and is widely specified under floors and where there is contact with the ground. Suppliers include Dow Styrofoam and Knauf Polyfoam.

Insulation in Boards, Rolls or Slabs

The wool-type insulations (often sold in rolls) are the cheapest. The polyurethanes and polystyrenes are usually sold as boards: these can be used in any application, but are particularly good under floors. Boards are often fitted in sloping roofs but this requires a lot of cutting. Walls can be insulated with boards or slabs, a semi-rigid format which stiffens wool-based insulation.

Multifoils

Multifoils use thin rolls of aluminium foil alternated with layers of foam padding. They promise good insulation levels, way better than expected by their 25mm width. They are a popular way of insulating sloping roofs.

Natural Insulation Materials

The use of natural insulation materials is becoming popular. Sheep’s wool is a wonderful material to use in place of the synthetic wools (that are made of glass fibre and mineral wool which are cheap but not pleasant to work with). Look out for Thermafleece. We are also beginning to see wood fibres and hemp being used in both roll and slab format, useful for insulating timber walls and roof spaces. Look for products such as Homatherm and Thermo-Hemp.

Blown-in Insulation

Insulation doesn’t have to be dry fixed. Wool, fibres and plastics can all be blown into position via a nozzle. This is a widely used technique under roofs. Warmcel is a popular form of insulation, used mainly in timber frame houses and lofts. It is comprised of cellulose fibre, made from recycled newspaper.

How do you Fix Insulation Between Loft Rafters: How To Guide

Partially-filled rafters:

• To maintain the required void above the insulation and to ensure the boards are flush with the bottom of the rafters, sidenail battens to the rafters in the appropriate position to provide a stop
• The void must be 50mm deep and ventilated for constructions not using a breathable sarking membrane. Ventilation should be provided in accordance with Approved Document F, F2 (Condensation in Roofs) of the Building Regulations or Technical Standard K (Ventilation of Buildings, Regulation 23) of the Building Standards (Scotland)

1. Measure the space between the rafters before cutting the boards, as spacings will vary slightly
2. Cut the insulation boards to size using a sharp knife or fin-toothed saw. We used Kingspan Thermapitch TP10 zero ODP which is a 100mm-thick rigid board
3. Install the insulation flush with the bottom of the rafters, making sure that it does not fill the entire rafter depth. Ensure that the insulation boards fit tightly between the rafters
4. Fill any gaps with expanding urethane sealant

Fully-filled rafters:

• Measure the space between the rafters before cutting the boards, as spacings vary
• Cut the insulation boards to size using a sharp knife or fine-toothed saw
• Install the insulation so that it is flush with the bottom of the rafters but does not fill the rafter depth
• In all cases, ensure that insulation boards between rafters are fitted tightly
• Fill any gaps with expanding urethane sealant
• Measure up before cutting the boards

1. Cut the insulation boards to size using a sharp knife or fine-toothed saw.We used Kingspan Thermawall TW56 zero ODP
2. Where board dimensions allow, fix the boards at right angles to the underside of the rafters
3. Boards should be fixed with galvanised clout nails or drywall timber screws, long enough to allow 25mm penetration of the timber. These should be placed at 150mm centres and not less than 10mm from the edges of the board along all supporting edges

There has been an 85% increase in consumer detriment within the home improvement sector as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic, a new survey shows.

Consumer detriment consists of financial and non-financial harm, such as when purchased goods or services do not meet the required standards, or companies provide subpar service.

Homeowners and tenants have been left vulnerable to substandard products and service since the outbreak began, according to the National Home Improvement Council (NHIC), a not for profit value-based membership organisation.

In its COVID-19 Impact Survey Report April 2020, the NHIC reveals findings collected from a national survey in the first week of lockdown (26 March – 3 April 2020), which highlights a number of risks facing consumers. 

Around 50% of 596 respondents, all of whom are NHIC members, believe opportunism by rogue traders who are neglecting social distancing and targeting vulnerable households is a significant risk, while an 85% increase in consumer detriment was reported.

The report added that homeowners and tenants are at risk of falling foul of: 

• Rogue traders (for example, those looking to fill the gap left by professionals who end up overcharging and underperforming) 
• Grey economy shortfalls (unregulated home improvements when employees perform casual work, cash in hand)
• Non-compliant products and or installations

Anna Scothern, chief executive at NHIC, said: “The significant risk to consumer detriment is extremely worrying and we call on the government to support the home improvement and Repair, Maintenance & Improvement sector as a priority alongside mainstream construction, engineering and new housebuilding.”

The NHIC says it will create a consumer detriment/protect group to support all households which may be vulnerable. 

(MORE: Check out Home School – for all you need to plan your next project while on lockdown)

Housebuilding Sector is Under Strain

The coronavirus crisis has caused problems across the housebuilding sector, from builders’ merchants restricting their operations to construction workers braving packed London Tubes to attend build sites. 

Essential construction has remained open in the UK, providing social distancing measures are implemented, but two-thirds of construction workers and supply chain manufacturers reported receiving abuse, either online or face-to-face from the public, for staying open to complete essential works.

These are trying times for the sector. The NHIC survey revealed that home improvement companies and supply chain manufacturers face several risks, including:

• Cash flow implications from the stay at home guidance 
• Going out of business 
• Losing valuable skills and resources due to having to lay staff off

Moreover, untrained and unskilled workers could start to infiltrate the sector, the NHIC warns, in a bid to collect some quick cash, which risks further problems for home improvement professionals. 

Among its recommendations to improve sector confidence, the NHIC has called for clearer guidance on what needs to happen in order for build sites to be allowed to stay open. “The guidance should not leave room for interpretation but guide and protect all parties,” it said.

“Home improvement and RMI sector support should be prioritised alongside mainstream construction, engineering and new housebuilding,” the NHIC added.

(MORE: LIVE UPDATES on lockdown, merchants and more)

Opening up a fireplace is a great way to add character and value to a period property. But, if you’re tempted to see what’s behind a blocked up chimney, what do you need to know about Building Regs, costs and how to do it safely to make sure you don’t end up with a whole lot of mess? Here’s what you need to know…

If you’re lucky, opening up a fireplace could involve little more than prising off a sheet of old hardboard to reveal a hidden gem. But even if you don’t find a long-forgotten marble masterpiece behind, there’s still plenty you can do to create a captivating focal point.

Do I Need Planning Permission When Opening up a Fireplace?

When it comes to getting planning permission, unless the building is listed, you shouldn’t normally need to worry.

In this example a log store has been built in as part of the open fireplace design. Image: Lifestyle Floors

However, because of the potential risks from fire and toxic fumes, even if you’re only installing a stove in an existing fireplace or lining a flue, the work will need to comply with Building Regulations (Part J deals with combustion appliances). And, any structural alterations, such as removal of a chimney breast, will also need to comply.

Complying With Building Regulations When Opening Up a Fireplace

The provision of a sufficient amount of oxygen, both for occupants and for the combustion of fires or appliances is a key part of compliance with current Building Regulations. This might require vents to be fitted close to the fire.

In timber floors, vents can be inserted into the floorboards so that the fire draws air from under the floor (rather than creating a draught under the living room door), which has the beneficial side effect of enhancing subfloor ventilation. Alternatively, vents are sometimes placed on outside walls just above the skirting. Redundant flues also need to be ventilated to prevent staining to chimney breasts caused by moist air condensing within the flue.

If required, a new gas supply can be piped to the fireplace under a timber floor or via copper pipe (usually 22mm) run externally and clipped to the outside wall surface. But when it comes to the installation of gas appliances, by law this task must only be carried out by a Gas Safe-registered engineer.

As ‘competent persons’, approved installers can ‘self-certify’ that work has been carried out in compliance with Building Regulations and issue completion certificates. HETAS is the equivalent body for solid fuel-burning appliances.

How to Open up an Old Fireplace

Before getting down to work it’s advisable to play safe and cover everything in sight because there is a potential that astounding volumes of soot and dust will be generated when opening up a fireplace — engulfing nearby furnishings, persons and pets in a thick, black miasma.

It’s also worth bearing in mind too that the vibration from builders’ Kango breakers can be very effective at rearranging the neighbour’s ornaments on the other side of a party wall. So a bolster and club hammer is probably a better option for localised demolition where old fireplaces have been bricked up. Having exposed the original ‘builder’s opening’, large deposits of accumulated soot and rubble will likely need to be removed before the chimney can be swept and the flue lined.

In most properties built in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the opening will be spanned by a load-bearing brick arch supported on a curved steel former. Exposed brickwork can look very appealing, but if the size of the opening needs to be altered, a concrete lintel can be inserted and the masonry plastered over.

Whatever your taste in fires, once you have a clean opening and a freshly swept flue, the next job is normally to upgrade the hearth, traditionally made from concrete set flush into the floor void. To comply with Building Regulations this will need to be raised above floor level; it’s a simple job to form a new one directly on top from in-situ concrete, or you might opt for a marble or slate hearth.

The new fire surround will stand on top of the hearth, screwed to the wall via small side lugs which can be inset into the wall and plastered over. Finally, if your preference is for a traditional Victorian cast iron insert, this can now be positioned centrally, secured by a mass of weak concrete placed behind it.

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What Style of Fireplace Should I Go For?

The style you go for really depends on the age of the property and the overall look you’re aiming to create. A large inglenook might be perfect for a woodburning stove, for example.

Chimney breasts take up a fair amount of space. So in smaller houses with cramped layouts it can be tempting to remove a redundant chimney breast, perhaps towards the rear of the property in a kitchen or bathroom. However, where a previous owner has already taken out a chimney breast and you want to open up a fireplace, it should be possible to rebuild it without costs escalating (assuming the stack is still in place).

Alternatively, it might be simpler to install an appliance designed to operate via a flue driven through an outside wall.

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Opening Up a Fireplace: Troubleshooting

Q. Does my Chimney Breast Have Damp?

If you spot damp patches and staining on your chimney breasts or the walls around your fireplaces you are looking at signs of underlying damp problems. The two main causes of damp (other than leaks at roof flashings) are rainwater coming down chimney pots and condensation.

Burning fuel produces water vapour which turns to moisture when it hits cold surfaces, especially if the stack is particularly tall or located on a cold outer wall. Fuels such as freshly cut timber are particularly wet and give off a lot of water vapour. Once mixed with soot the moisture can bleed through the plasterwork leaving ugly stains.

In older properties, the stack walls were built without a damp-proof course (DPC), and eroded mortar joints can allow damp to penetrate down through porous masonry. To prevent this, modern stacks have a DPC through the chimney at approximately 150mm above the roof and another near the head.

Condensation inside the stack can usually be resolved by installing a suitable flue liner. But this can sometimes lead to problems where pots and flues are exposed to rain, because rather than being absorbed into the masonry, the rainwater may be channelled straight down the ‘chute’ forming puddles in the fireplace.

To exclude the entry of rain there’s a wide variety of caps, cowls, and hoods available to protect pots and flues. Even if redundant fireplaces are sealed up and you don’t want to use them, there should be a flow of air to prevent condensation with pots hooded or capped, and airbricks inserted in the stack wall.

Where damp is seeping down through porous chimney masonry, repointing the brickwork joints can sometimes solve the problem, or new larger flashings can be fitted that extend higher up and deeper into the brickwork.

Q. Why is my Fire Smoking?

You’ve opened up a fireplace only to find smoke doesn’t go up the chimney but instead blows into the room – or maybe you find that  the fire becomes choked and struggles to burn. What to do?

Fireplaces rely on the principle that warm air rises. A regularly used flue helps keep the escaping smoke warm, aiding its ascendance.

• Some chimneys are simply too cold to draw well, particularly those on outside walls.
• A stack that is too short or overshadowed by high buildings or trees can result in a downdraught with the smoke blowing back down.
• Flues that are too large can cause smokiness because it takes a long time for them to get warm enough to help the smoke rise.
• Flues that are too small can choke the fire.

Probably the most common cause of smoky fires is a lack of air, particularly in houses where draughts have been sealed up. Smoke can also become trapped because there’s something blocking the flue — indeed anything which obstructs the flow of smoke and combustion gases, such as a badly fitted pot, can be a problem. Although there are multiple possible causes of smoky fires, sometimes the problem can even be down to a temporary change in wind direction distorting air pressure.

How to Fix a Smoking Fire

• Air starvation can be cured by boosting air supply by installing (closable) vents or an underfloor grille near the fire
• Flues that are too large can be modified with a suitable flue liner, and a ‘throat restrictor’ can be fitted to narrow the entry zone from the fireplace
• Smoke will disperse more efficiently where internal flue walls are smooth, once lined
• To clear blockages – debris, soot, nests, etc. – ensure that the chimney has been swept
• To solve downdraughts, a special draught-inducing cowl or circular deflector can be fitted, or the height of the flue raised with a pot extender.

What to Do if Smoke Fumes are Leaking into Other Rooms

A blocked flue can divert smoke and fumes into adjoining rooms or adjacent flues. Smoke leakage and fumes may cause drowsiness, and there are potentially very serious dangers from breathing in poisonous fumes and from the risk of fire. Gas or oil-fired appliances are particularly prone to producing deadly, odourless carbon monoxide, too.

Look for signs of bird ingress and blockage such as feathers, sticks, straw and large amounts of soot in the grate. To prevent blockages caused by bird access and nests, unprotected chimney pots can be fitted with bird guards.

Gas and oil appliances need special chimney-top terminals to prevent blockage and to help disperse gases, too.

Gaps may have also formed where mortar joints have been eroded over time by acidic chemicals from combustion gases. Leaks can sometimes go undetected, particularly within lofts or to adjoining houses. The airtightness of a flue can be tested using smoke pellets (available from DIY stores). Where possible, leaky mortar joints should be made good prior to lining the flue. But even where a flue is already lined, old steel liners eventually suffer from corrosion.

It’s essential that flue liners are of the right type for the fire or appliance. Flexible single-skinned liners are used mainly for gas fires and oil or gas-fired boilers, whereas hardier double-skinned liners are required for burning solid fuels (i.e. for woodburners).

How to Prevent Chimney Fires

Fires in flues can burn unnoticed until structural damage is caused or fire spreads to the main house. Symptoms include excessively hot chimney breasts and the smell of burning.

Over time, soot and tar can build up inside flues and may eventually ignite causing hidden chimney fires that are hard to extinguish. A chimney fire can burn at over 1,000°C, causing metal liners to collapse. This is more common where the fuel being burnt is green, unseasoned timber as it generates excessive tar. But soot deposits can also be a result of inefficient combustion caused by poor air supply.

Flues need to be swept annually to remove combustible soot deposits and blockages. Choose a sweeper who’s National Association of Chimney Sweeps (NACS) or HETAS approved and ideally also a member of the Guild of Master Sweeps.

Wood and peat are particularly aggressive fuels and can produce a rapid build-up of tar and resinous deposits on the inside of the flue. But sweeping flexible flue liners can be difficult, so one trick of the trade is to occasionally burn smokeless fuel in a very hot fire which, it is claimed, melts the deposit away.

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About the Author

Chartered surveyor Ian Rock is director of the survey price comparison website www.Rightsurvey.co.uk and author of the Haynes Period Property Manual.

Image: John Lawrence

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House prices could drop by an average of 13% across the UK because of the coronavirus (Covid-19) outbreak, a consulting firm has suggested.

This new forecast from the Centre for Economics and Business Research (CEBR) said the economic impact of the lockdown measures could significantly disrupt the UK’s housing market.

CEBR predicts that economic uncertainty, falling incomes and fewer house sales will lead to a steep decline in house prices by the end of 2020.

It warned that the largest decreases may be observed in areas with the highest proportion of workers in sectors badly affected by social distancing measures, such as the manufacturing, construction and accommodation sectors. 

CEBR expects an average drop in housing prices of 13%, or £38,000. Northern Ireland is predicted to experience the biggest drop, of 16.5%. Wales is expected to drop by 14.5%, the South West 13%, the East Midlands 12.5% and London 11.25%.

Scotland and the South East of England are predicted to see drops of only 10.5% and 11% respectively.

Forecasts Subject to Change

Given the uncertainty over the pandemic’s impact on the UK economy, there have been varied predictions over how it will affect the housing market. 

Real estate firm Knight Frank estimated last week that UK house prices will fall by just 3% in 2020, before rebounding by 5% in 2021. Meanwhile, financial services company Jefferies anticipates house prices will collapse by no more than 20% this year, a worst case scenario.

Ultimately, the housing market could be vastly different in six months’ time, so forecasts should be taken with a pinch of salt. Property experts tend to agree that clearer predictions will be possible once lockdown measures have ended.

Experts also concur that the impact of coronavirus could dramatically affect the housing market. Rightmove has previously suggested that the impact of coronavirus could grind the housing market to a halt, and Zoopla has predicted that new sales will suffer a 60% drop in transactions during the next three months.

The reasons for this include viewings no longer taking place, mortgages taking longer to process, and people being discouraged from moving into properties unless the property is vacant. 

The current situation marks a vast difference to the end of February, when asking prices were close to an all-time high and the construction sector was reported to have grown at its fastest pace in more than a year. 

Construction Challenges

The construction sector has been working within strict guidelines since social distancing rules were introduced, and this has posed a challenge to those embarking on a self build project, extending or renovating a house. 

Many major build merchants such as Jewson and Travis Perkins are only operating essential delivery services, which can have an impact on self builders when materials are not available.

Follow our live blog for updates on how the coronavirus lockdown could affect your project and the wider construction industry.