Planning Permission: When Do You Need It and How Do You Get It?

Planning permission is the key that turns a piece of land into a viable building plot and the process is in place to prevent unlawful development. As such, planning permission is a vital part of any self build or extensive extension project, or any home improvement planned for a listed building or property located in a designated area.

While applying for planning permission can be time-consuming (and sometimes stressful), it is useful to not only understand what the process involves, but also have a clear indication of what your local planning department is likely to approve.

If your project needs planning permission, this ultimate guide covers everything you need for a successful application — from when you need planning permission and how much it costs, to whether you should use a planning consultant, through to how long the process should take and what your options are should your application be rejected.

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What is Planning Permission?

Planning permission is the consent of your local authority on a proposed building project and is in place to deter inappropriate development. The building of a new dwelling, or extensive changes to existing buildings, usually requires planning permission. Planning permission is often the key that turns a piece of agricultural land into a viable building plot.

Decisions on whether to grant planning permission are made in line with national guidance (in the form of the National Planning Policy Framework) and the local planning policies set out by the local authority.

(MORE: Do I Need Planning Permission? Check out 20 home improvements you can make without needing approval from the planners)

How Much Does a Planning Permission Application Cost?

The cost of submitting a planning application varies across the UK, but is currently £462 for a full application for a new single dwelling in England. For home improvers, an application in England for an extension currently costs £206, whereas in Wales the cost of a typical householder application is currently £190.

Since April 2008, all local planning departments use the same application form, known as 1APP, you can find the appropriate form for your area and complete the application process online at the Planning Portal.

However, the real cost of obtaining planning permission arguably comes in preparing the plans and documents (the design fees) in readiness for submission and any accompanying surveys (such as ecological surveys) which may be required. Also bear in mind that you may need to make more than one planning application in order to reach agreement with the council and make revisions to your plans accordingly (which may involve further architect/designer fees).

A minimum budget of around £2,000 is probably realistic for getting planning permission.

How Long Does Planning Permission Last?

All planning permissions automatically expire after a certain period. Unless your permission says otherwise, you have three years from the date full consent is granted to begin building.

Depending on how soon your consent expires, you may take different steps to get your project started. If the expiry date is imminent, it may be best to reapply to ensure you have adequate time to plan effectively.

If you have sufficient time to make what is known as a ‘material start’ then it may be best to secure the permission in perpetuity, allowing you the time needed to get started properly.

When Do I Need Planning Permission?

If your project involves the creation of a new dwelling (by either building from scratch or subdividing an existing home), then planning permission is normally required.

Larger outbuildings or extensions, or builds/improvements in Designated Areas or involving listed buildings, are also likely to require planning permission.

Smaller additions and improvements can normally be made under Permitted Development.

Are There Different Types of Planning Permission?

Full Planning Permission

This grants permission for a project with a detailed design. But before going full steam ahead on site, the planning conditions attached to the consent must be discharged. They must be discharged (satisfied) formally by letter by the local authority, usually before commencing work — otherwise the approval is invalidated.

Outline Planning Permission

This grants permission in principle, but does not include design specifics. It is important to note that outline planning consent does not provide permission to start work. An application for ‘reserved matters’ – which may include the size of the proposed house, appearance, position, landscaping and access – will need to be submitted and approved before work can take place.

If your detailed plans deviate significantly from the original outline planning then you’ll likely need to submit for full planning.

Also, if you are keen to start your project quickly, then it makes sense to apply for full planning permission.

How Long Does it Take to Get Planning Permission?

You should find out whether your application has been approved after eight weeks — although more complex schemes can take longer.

A sign is posted outside the address relating to the proposed development and any neighbours likely to be affected are written to and invited to view the plans and to comment. This is known as the public consultation process and it takes three to eight weeks. The authority will make statutory consultations to the local Highways department, and where necessary the Environment Agency as well as others.

Realistically, if you are having to make more than one application (following revisions or changes to the design), you should consider setting aside 18 months for the process.

Securing planning permission doesn’t necessarily mean that you can start work straightaway. Make sure you look at the planning conditions attached to the consent — for instance, you may need to seek approval for your chosen cladding or roofing materials.

Should I Use a Planning Consultant to Help Secure Planning Permission?

Many people will appoint a planning consultant before they even buy a plot, to work out the potential of a development. This could save you thousands of pounds on buying a project that turns out not to be feasible.

Planning consultants have full knowledge of the ever-changing planning policies that any project will be subject to. So, whether you are extending, renovating or building a new home, their help could be indispensable — especially if your project is in an area of which carries restrictions such as a Conservation Area or AONB.

What Does a Planning Application Include?

In general terms, your application should include:

• five copies of application forms
• the signed ownership certificate
• a site plan, block plan, elevations of both the existing and proposed sites,
• a Design and Access Statement
• the correct fee

What Factors Affect the Granting of Planning Permission?

The local authority will base its decision on what are known as ‘material considerations’, which can include (but are not limited to):

• Overlooking/loss of privacy
• Loss of light or overshadowing
• Parking
• Highway safety
• Traffic
• Noise
• Impact on listed building and Conservation Area
• Layout and density of building
• Design, appearance and materials
• Government policy
• Disabled access
• Proposals in the development plan
• Previous planning decisions
• Nature conservation

Neighbours will be consulted and invited to comment, together with parish councils (in England and Wales), but only those objections based on material considerations are taken into account.

If the neighbours do not object and the officers recommend approval, they will usually grant planning permission for a householder application using what are known as delegated powers.

Face-to-face meetings can be helpful in thrashing out the justification for objections Requests for changes should be based on planning policies and they should be consistent with other recent decisions in the area.

Can I Change my Design Once I Have Planning Permission?

You can make minor alterations by applying for a non-material amendment. However, major alterations could involve a further application for full planning permission, so discuss your plans with your LPA first.

What Happens if I am Refused Planning Permission?

In England around 75% of applications are granted. If your application is rejected, you can either amend and resubmit having dealt with the reasons for refusal, or you can make an appeal to the planning inspectorate.

Around 40% of householder applications that are refused are later granted at appeal.

Can I Build a House Without Planning Permission?

While it is not illegal to develop land without planning permission, it is not lawful and, consequently, if you have failed to get consent for your project, then the local planning authority can take action to have the work altered or demolished. In this instance, you can make a retrospective planning application and if this is refused you can appeal the decision. If you lose, it can prove very costly.

There is a legal loophole: if no enforcement action is taken within four years of completion, the development becomes immune from enforcement action (10 years for a change of use). The development then becomes lawful — but this is too great a risk to take.

Altering a listed building without prior permission is, however, a criminal offence, and in extreme cases it can lead to prosecution and unlimited fines — and even imprisonment. So do ensure you apply for approval first.

Can I Get Planning Permission for a Home in the Countryside?

Many believe it is harder to get planning permission if you are building a home in the countryside. However it certainly isn’t out of the question as our guide to planning permission in the countryside explains.

In fact, under Paragraph 79 (formerly Paragraph 55) of the National Planning Policy Framework, it is even possible to build in green belt land, if your project can be shown to be of particular architectural merit and worth.

For further advice on planning, buy How to Get Planning Permission by Roy Speer and Michael Dade.

With thanks to Ken Dijksman.

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Designing dormer windows for an existing house can be tricky. Although ideal for creating ‘rooms in the roof’, the pitch, roof line and how it will interact with existing the house and those around it will need to be carefully considered.

When things go wrong with the design, they can ruin the first impression and kerb appeal of a property as it impacts the overall design so talk to an architect or designer when planning in some additional head-height.

How Much Does It Cost to Add a Dormer Window?

A dormer loft conversion in the UK can cost anything upwards of £20,000 or around £500 – £600/m². The cost for a master bedroom plus en suite will naturally sit at the higher end of the spectrum at around £35,000 – £45,000.

Does Adding a Dormer Add Value?

This is likely to be a good investment no matter the property as Nationwide says a master suite conversion can add a value of around 20% to the value of a three-bedroom, one-bathroom house (although beware of area price ceilings). As the Office for National Statistics found the average house price in June 2019 to be £230,292, this could equate to around £46,000.

Do I Need Planning Permission to Add a Dormer Window?

Planning permission is not required in most cases, as long as the dormer window design does not exceed the highest part of the roof, among other specific parameters. However, it is always best practice to check with your local planning office that the work does fall within your permitted development rights before any works begin.  

If the house is in a conversation area or the materials chosen for the dormer’s exterior contrast in style to the existing house you will need building consent for any significant works.

What is a Dormer-style Window?

From the French ‘dormir’ meaning ‘to sleep’, dormer windows are vertical units within a roof of their own, positioned, at least in part, within the slope of the roof. Ideal for those who can’t extend sideways or to the rear in urban areas or for self-builds with height restrictions, dormer windows can come in all shapes and sizes depending on what is right for the house. 

What Types of Dormer Window Can I Get?

Gabled

A gable fronted dormer is the most common type of dormer window and traditionally has a simple pitched roof sloping to two sides. A vertical frame supports the planes to form a triangular section below the roofline.

Shed

A shed dormer has a sloped single flat plane roof in the same direction of the roofline but at a shallower angle.

Hipped

A hip roof dormer slopes on three planes and converges at one point.

Eyebrow

With a curved roof and no sides, the eye brow, or eyelid dormer style gradually emerges as the roof moves up and over the dormer in a flattened bell curve.

Designing the Best Dormer Window 

How Big Should Dormer Windows Be?

Many dormers in early cottages are not original – a fact many self-builders forget – as there were no window openings at the first floor. So vast numbers of cottage dormers are actually retrofits — and yet so often they appear original. Why? Because they are not too big, and they are in proportion with the roof, which is both large and steeply pitched.

Many modern self-builders end up with one-and-a-half storey house with dormers as a result of planning restraints. The lesson here is still the same: keep the dormer windows in proportion.

Positioning Your Dormer Windows

Generally the most unsatisfying visual feature of spec-built ‘dormer bungalows’ is usually that the roof windows are too big. The front elevation is out of proportion as a result.

Traditional cottages are perhaps the ‘easiest’ place in which to position a dormer — that is, the situation in which you are least likely to get it wrong. Keeping the ridges of a dormer well below the main ridge will inevitably look better, whatever the style of the house.

It is best to place them slightly lower than halfway down the roof. If they threaten to get close to the ridge, then the usual practice is to flatten their roofs.

Dormer Windows and Roof Pitch

There is no harm in having the roof pitch of the dormer steeper than that of the main roof. However, if they are kept the same it will usually be possible to have tiled – as opposed to lead – valleys.

It is also wise to allow the roof of the dormer to follow the style of the main roof (i.e. hips with hips and gables with gables). A dormer placed in a hipped gable should also have a hip, otherwise it will look very odd. With a shallow roof pitch, often clad with slates, a flat-roofed dormer will look much better than one with a pitched roof.

Above all, try to put in a great deal of effort at the design stage. Play around with the elevations until they look ‘right’. Then choose materials very carefully, so they do not make the dormer too bulky.

Avoiding Dormer Window Design Mistakes

Dormers need to be an integral part of the overall house design. Designs should be generally subservient to, or at least picking up the design guidelines of, the existing roof shape. The tendency to go too large, particularly on smaller homes, is what leads to common mistakes.

With a large late-Victorian or Edwardian house containing a loft conversion, inserting roof dormers can actually enhance the elevation (especially in an urban situation) by adding to the verticality and reducing the ‘squatness’.

With younger houses, however, the reverse can often be the case. The classic is the dormer in the roof at the front of a semi-detached pair. A dormer on one side may well create a look of imbalance and be a visual disaster. Of course this is assuming planning permission is granted for such a design. 

• Avoid adding feature without any design confidence or consideration — also known as ‘stick-on features’
• Make them an integral part of the design. (Try to find a style that suits the house, rather than simply the largest you can get away with)
• Over-large or ‘boxy’ dormers will result in an ugly finish as they will overpower the rest of the house
• Don’t over-insulate. Packing modern high performance insulation into the cheeks of a dormer will suffice without unduly increasing the thickness

Many construction workers are working on build sites across the UK, and despite enormous pressure from experts and leading figures within the construction industry, the government is continuing to resist calls for all construction sites to be shut down. 

Safety for all builders and on-site staff is paramount, and build sites must ensure precautions are taken to prevent the spread of coronavirus (Covid-19). Social distancing should be implemented across all active build sites, and building site managers need to recognise, now more than ever, they have a duty of care towards their workers.

Paul Kempton, managing director at Self Build Zone, recognises that self builders with construction workers on site certainly have more to consider than usual, but notes that securing your site is vital with regards to more than coronavirus.

(MORE: Building As Usual: LIVE UPDATES on Lockdown, Merchants and More)

Secure Your Build Site

“In times such as these the main problems outside of your control are going to probably be theft and arson,” says Kempton. “It is vital to protect your project and this can be done either proactively or reactively, or in layman’s terms, ‘before or after the stable door has been shut.’”

If you have a fire or flood, Kempton says, don’t go into the building or house yourself. Phone the emergency services as a matter of urgency.

For theft, Kempton says that prevention is better than cure, “Particularly now because if something does happen it may well take longer probably to source materials and product when things return to normal.

”When it comes to theft – remember all that you can do is to ‘buy time’ and make life as difficult for any would-be thief. Hopefully you could make it so difficult and not worth the trouble they will go and find an easier target.”

Kempton recommends implementing a number of preventative measures to reduce the risk of theft. These include:

Install Perimeter Security 

Gates are only as good as the final link, being the padlock. Always use a closed shackle padlock as it makes it harder to get bolt cutters into it. With hasp and padlocks – make sure you bolt them through the door/gate, and not screw them onto the door/gate.

Any gate should have the hinges burred over to prevent them being lifted off. Make it as awkward as possible for an intruder to get in and out of the site and the building.

Window Locks

Few people have ever thought as to why you have window locks; it is to stop the thieves getting out easily. If they haven’t got a quick exit route they won’t hang around and they won’t want to break a window and risk leaving DNA.

Secure Your Site Container

If you have a site container, make sure that you not only use it but that it is secured with at least a ‘closed shackle’ padlock and make sure the doors cannot be lifted off the hinges.

If you can, get an alarm system linked to your mobile and put one in the container but with an external aerial. Consider fitting drop-down posts in front of garages and site containers to prevent the doors opening and/or to limit space to drive machinery out of the storage.

Use Technology

For a few hundred quid, you could buy a GSM or wireless battery alarm intruder system, including a webcam that can feed photos back to your mobile. This is perfect for garages, site huts, containers or the house.

Kempton also recommends:

• Don’t leave portable hand tools and equipment lying around anywhere on site – take as much home with you as possible, every time you visit the site to do some work or shut the site down
• If you’ve built the garage first to use as a store, make sure it’s secure by using things such as window bars or shutters, good-quality locks and hinge bolts on door frames
• Flat packs, valuable metals (copper, zinc and lead) and kitchen and heating equipment are all favourites of thieves, as they’re very easily disposed of. A garage may look secure but of course most have a back door which is nicely concealed from the road or passers-by so they can take their time.

“The key point is to make sure the product warning signage is in clear view of any would-be intruder, so they think twice and perhaps go somewhere else not so secure,” Kempton says. 

“Finally, reduce the potential risk and only have materials and goods delivered as and when you need them, if at all possible, and store them out of sight or covered up in a secure area.”

Boris Johnson has announced that the UK is in lockdown for three weeks to combat the escalating threat of the coronavirus (Covid-19) pandemic, causing confusion for the construction industry about what this means for building sites across the UK.  

One of the Prime MInister’s most notable rules from a self builder’s perspective was that all gatherings of more than two people in public will be ceased, excluding people you live with. This led to many builders going to sleep on Monday night unsure if they would be going to work this morning.

Late on Monday night, housing secretary Robert Jenrick confirmed that builders working on sites can continue to do so. But all building sites must follow Public Health England guidance on social distancing.

Advice for the housing, construction & building maintenance industries:
?If you can work from home, do so.
?If you are working on site, you can continue to do so. But follow Public Health England guidance on social distancing.
?Outside of work, remember to #StayHomeSaveLives

— Robert Jenrick (@RobertJenrick) March 23, 2020

However, Michael Gove muddied the waters during an appearance on Good Morning Britain this morning. He reiterated that when a building site is empty, workers can carry on providing they adhere to social distance, but then stated that if families are living in the buildings where repairs and maintenance are occurring, then work should not continue.

Builders are understandably concerned at the prospect of travelling to building sites, even if stringent hygiene measures have been implemented. 

Merchants Close Their Doors

Another major announcement was that all shops selling non-essential goods would be closed immediately. It was later clarified that hardware stores were among the shops exempt from the government’s ban.

But this morning several of the UK’s biggest builders merchants revealed they were closing their doors for the day, and no deliveries will be made. These merchants include:

All of these merchants have confirmed that they are in discussions with the government over how to provide services safely to customers during the lockdown, and it remains to be seen over the coming days whether they will reopen in any capacity. 

Screwfix remains open and has pledged to introduce a number of measures that enable customers to obtain materials. 

(MORE: Coronavirus: Keep Busy at Home With These Easy Home Improvement Projects)

Jason Orme, Content Director of Homebuilding & Renovating, believes merchants closing for the day, and possibly longer, is a significant development for self builders who’d hoped to be able to continue with their projects.

Orme said: “With merchants now mainly closed then the reality is that for homeowners employing builders for self builds or home extension project, work will end today as the materials supply shuts.”

Size of Building Sites

Another area of uncertainty for builders is the difference between small building sites and larger sites. Whereas small sites will only have a handful of tradespeople working at any one time, larger sites that include communal changing areas and eating facilities pose a greater risk that builders could become ill. 

It has not yet been officially confirmed whether larger sites will be differentiated from smaller sites by the government.

Brian Berry, Chief Executive of the Federation of Master Builders, called for greater clarity from the government with regards to which construction sites will remain open.

Berry said: “Our members want to do the right thing, but the advice coming from the government is anything but clear. I am calling on the government to tell my members, today, whether they can continue to go on site and work. Small builders cannot work from home, but without cash grants available now, they risk seeing their livelihoods lost.

“Mixed messages are spreading further anxiety at a time when hundreds of small builders face immediate lost earning, having to make their staff redundant, and seeing their companies go to the wall.”

New Guidelines Recommended

The Construction Leadership Council (CLC) has published new operating guides for build sites to ensure builders are protected on site and the risk of the spread of infection is minimised.

Andy Mitchell, co-chair of CLC, said: “It is vital that the health and safety requirements of any construction activity must not be compromised at this time. If an activity cannot be undertaken safely due to a lack of suitably qualified personnel being available, or social distancing being implemented, it should not take place.”

The guidance is intended to introduce consistent measures on build sites of all sizes in line with the government’s guidance on social distancing. The CLC is not a regulatory or enforcement body with the power to instruct sites to close.

The government’s unclear advice on building has also been questioned by the British Safety Council. It also raised concern that construction workers will be braving the London Underground to commute to build sites.

Lawrence Waterman, chair of the British Safety Council, said: “The construction sector needs clarity from the government – on most sites social distancing will be impossible or simply unsafe. All non-essential construction should end now so that construction workers can go home and stay home like everyone else.

“Some building work will be deemed essential – for example, building work that will improve access to hospitals or road access which will help tackle the virus. It is also the case that half-built buildings need to be made safe and workers should prioritise work that can safely suspend construction for as long as necessary.”

Content supplied by Self-Build Zone

If you plan on carrying out any kind of construction work on your home, whether you are building from scratch, renovating or extending, then you will need to not only be aware of site insurance and structural warranties, but also know when you need them and to what extent you are covered.

It’s important to have public liability cover in place from the moment you own the site as you could be liable if someone injures themselves on your land. As soon as works begin it’s crucial to have site insurance to cover you and those you employ while clearing the site, installing services or starting construction.

Policies range in length from 3-24 months and will end at the date of Building Control sign off or at the natural expiration of the policy.

You will need to understand the technical terminology found in such policies to ensure you are effectively covered throughout your project. Here, we explain the specifics.

What is an ‘All Risks’ Site Insurance Policy?

This is a specialist policy that covers construction projects ranging from new build properties, extensions, internal renovations or even conversions of former agricultural/industrial buildings into dwellings. 

This kind of policy predominantly covers physical perils to the structure, such as:

• fire
• vandalism
• malicious damage
• storm damage.

As the employer on a homebuilding or improvement project, this policy will cover your workers, the land and all materials due to be used in the project.

Covering Workers, Accidents and Legal Fees

These are major aspects of the policy. Public Liability covers third party individuals or property, while Employers Liability covers the risk of your workers submitting claims for illness or injury whilst on the site. 

Personal accident cover is also included in the event that you or anyone else named on the policy are injured during the course of the build.

Legal expenses cover should be provided as part of the policy and is designed to help pay towards the cost of any contractual dispute you may have with your builder, architect  or engineer. Additional levels of cover can be obtained for plant, tools and equipment as well as any caravans or site huts you may have for the project,whether you own them or are hiring them. 

What is the Difference Between Site Insurance and a Structural Warranty?

While site insurance covers the project during the construction phase, the structural warranty policy is designed to cover the reinstatement or partial reinstatement of the property and can be transferred to all future owners (if sold within a 10-year period). 

The warranty provides cover for major damage as a result of defective design, workmanship and materials, and the policy only begins once the property has received a Building Control Completion Certificate.

There are two routes through which the structural warranty operates:

• the Technical Audit process whereby an approved inspectors carries out surveys at key construction stages solely for the purpose of issuing the warranty (Building Control is arranged with another provider) 
• the Building Control process in which an approved inspector carries out the Building Control instead of the Local Authority, therefore combining both sets of required inspections and thus issuing the Building Control Completion Certificate and Warranty Certificate at the end of the project. 

It is worth noting that the longer you withhold from purchasing the structural warranty, the more expensive it will become. 

In today’s climate, a structural warranty is often required by mortgage lenders in order for them to lend against a self build project, so it is very important to check that they accept the warranty provider you have chosen. 

The UK Finance Initiative has a comprehensive list of approved structural warranty providers. 

For more information on securing the right kind of cover for your self build, renovation or extension project, contact Self-Build Zone.

Coronavirus has led to the government urging people to stay at home where possible, and with many people now homebound, taking on a renovation or home improvement project is the perfect opportunity to keep busy.

Self-isolation isn’t an overly pleasant experience, but opting to renovate or improve your home during the coronavirus crisis could be more beneficial than you think.

Not only could these changes help to add value to your home, but they could focus your mind away from working from home and keep you occupied while the outbreak continues.

(MORE: Renovating a House: The Complete Guide) 

DIY Home Improvement Ideas

While tradespeople may not be able to attend your home to perform a job, there are several quick makeovers or larger-scale improvements you can take on, including:

Creating a Dedicated Home Office

Having a dedicated home office could be valuable when the schools shut on Friday. If you have a room that isn’t used very often, or is used for storage, such as a spare room or garden room, consider setting up your home office there. 

Make sure you have adequate natural light and consider adding some task lighting, which can be particularly useful if you are working later in the evening.

You’ll need adequate power points and a good wifi signal too, so consider these when setting up.

(MORE: 12 Home Office Design Ideas)

If you are moving your home office into a storage room, you’ll want to remove the stored items in advance, helping you to optimise the space. These storage ideas can be used to effectively maximise your room’s space.

Laying Laminate Flooring

If you have a busy household that is self-isolating, there could be more wear and tear on your floors, so laminate offers protection. Laminate is also easier to keep clean. 

You will need the right equipment in order to lay this flooring yourself. And depending on your design of choice, it can make your home feel more spacious, which could feel most welcome if you’re homebound for several weeks.

You can probably buy everything you need online, however, while 7-day delivery is available on tools sites such as Screwfix, the current problems facing some businesses could delay deliveries. 

This how-to video from builder Andy Stevens demonstrates how to lay a tongue and groove dry-fix flooring system.

Insulating a Loft

Insulating a loft can make your home more energy efficient by reducing heat loss and thus your heating bills. And this is a task you can do yourself. For materials such as boards, rolls or slabs, tools sites such as B&Q remain open for delivery. 

Decorating Your House

Have you been putting off a painting or decorating job? Now’s the time to get to it. Not only can the job be completed within a couple of days, but the whole family can get involved — keeping you all busy and doing activities together.

Furthermore, adding a lick of paint can add around 5-10% to the value of your home. These tips for decorating your own house will help you ensure a long-lasting, professional finish.

Planning Future Home Improvement Projects

You’ll likely be spending a sizeable amount of time with your family in the coming weeks, so why not use this time to assess future home improvements you could benefit from? This might be the perfect opportunity to begin planning an extension project.

Alternatively, if being in the same living room for large chunks of the day with your family members leaves you fighting over what to watch on the TV, you could consider converting your garage into a separate living room for your children. If you are longing for a larger plan space, you may also consider creating a new kitchen diner by remodelling or knocking down internal walls. 

These projects could also help to boost your kerb appeal, and do not need to be particularly expensive. They also shouldn’t be hugely disruptive. But make sure you do them once you’ve finished work for the day.