5 Concrete Lifting FAQs

5 Concrete Lifting FAQs

  

Concrete can start to sink due to soil erosion, settling, and compaction. Sometimes this happens from the freezing and thawing that occurs during the winter. Basically, if a space forms between the concrete and the soil, it may start to sink down. Does this mean you need a concrete replacement for your walkway, patio or driveway? No, it does not. Concrete lifting is an eco-friendly, cost-effective alternative.

Polylevel Alberta Corp. in Edmonton shares answers to some frequently asked questions about concrete lifting.

What is concrete lifting?

Concrete lifting, also known as foam-jacking, is the process of filling that gap beneath the slab of concrete that is causing it to sink. Small holes are drilled into the concrete. Then a polyurethane foam is injected in those holes to fill the gap and it lifts the concrete so it’s level. Then the holes are filled so they are not noticeable. After that, the concrete will be stable.

How long will it take?

Concrete lifting usually takes a few hours to complete, start to finish. If you were to replace your driveway entirely, you would have to remove the old concrete and install new, then wait for it to cure, with the whole process taking days or weeks. With concrete lifting, you can walk on it immediately and park your car on your driveway just 15 minutes after the work is complete. That’s how fast it cures!

Is concrete lifting expensive?

Concrete lifting costs a fraction of the cost of a full concrete replacement. Your cost will be determined by how much polyurethane product is required for the specific job, and the amount of time it takes the contractors. So, if you have several areas that need lifting, it will cost more than one small area – but still far cheaper than a concrete installation.

What product will be used?

PolyLevel Alberta uses the PolyLevel® system. This is an expanding polyurethane foam that is made from environmentally-friendly material that is waterproof and will stand the test of time. That means no harmful chemicals will be leached into the surrounding soil. This product is available exclusively from PolyLevel Alberta.

Can I lift concrete floors located inside my house?

Yes. If you have an interior concrete floor that is cracked or sinking, you can have them repaired through this process. Check for unlevel floors or separations in doorways. If left unfixed, these issues can start causing serious damage to your home. PolyLevel will use a gentle technique that can raise your interior floor back to its proper position. Connect with PolyLevel Alberta to learn more.

Concrete Lifting in Edmonton

At PolyLevel Alberta Corp., re-leveling, repairing and sealing concrete slabs is their specialty! Using their PolyLevel Foam, they lift driveways, garage pads or your entire garage, sidewalks, warehouses, and virtually any concrete pad. They can also seal all your concrete joints and cracks and offer a lineup of exclusive products will extend the remaining life of your concrete by up to 3 to 5 times!.

If you have sinking concrete around your home, get in touch with PolyLevel Alberta Corp. today!

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How to Gloss Wood: Your How-to Guide

Wondering how to gloss a door, window or interior woodwork? Applying gloss paint to interior and exterior woodwork remains a popular way to ensure a smart, durable finish. Gloss paint need not be brilliant white, either —  you can get pre-mixed gloss in dozens of shades, or mixed to order.

There are several different types of gloss paint, including liquid, non-drip and one coat.

  • Many professional decorators use liquid gloss over an undercoat
  • Non-drip gloss paint is good if you are doing lots of vertical surfaces, such as doors and architrave
  • One coat creates a good-looking finish very quickly and is ideal if you want to put a fresh coat on paintwork of a similar colour.

How to Gloss a Door or Window

For this job we’re painting over a dark-stained window frame in order to lighten up a gloomy room, but those wondering how to gloss a door can use the same steps. We’re going to use the undercoat and liquid gloss method, but many of the steps below can be used to help you get a great finish with any gloss system you choose.

Preparation is key to a good finish — you’ll get noticeably better results if you spend a little extra time preparing the surface. The simple step of rubbing down the undercoat with wet and dry paper, for example, helps the gloss to flow on better, giving a shiner finish to the job.

(MORE: The DIY jobs best left to the professionals)

Keep things clean. Specks of dust, pet hair and flying insects can all conspire to ruin the best-applied paint. A vacuum cleaner and a tack cloth will be your best defence against them. Arm yourself before you start. After all that, the actual gloss painting is straightforward. Follow the tips in step 10 and you’ll get a great finish.

Tool List:

  • Good quality paint brushes
  • Sharp ‘Stanley’-type knife
  • Vacuum cleaner
  • Wooden or rubber sanding block

Materials Needed:

  • Plastic disposable dust sheets
  • Masking tape (25mm)
  • 240-grade sandpaper
  • Dust mask
  • 400-grade wet and dry paper
  • Primer (if painting on bare wood)
  • Undercoat (if using a traditional liquid or non-drip gloss system
  • Gloss
  • Tack cloths

How to Gloss Wood

Step-by-step

1. Lay new plastic disposable dust sheets in the area you plan to work in. If you use material dust sheets make sure they are completely dust free.

2. It’s much easier to paint a surface that’s clear of any fixings, so remove any latches and handles.

3. Use 240-grade sandpaper (wrapped around a sanding block, where possible) to put a key onto the surface so the undercoat will adhere to it. Always sand in the direction of the grain. This surface had a couple of coats of wood stain on it and it was straightforward to key up.

If the surface you plan to paint has several layers of old paint on it, you may have to start with a coarser grade of paper to get rid of any imperfections. Always finish off with a finer grade paper like 240 or you’ll end up with scratches that will show through the undercoat and top coat. Wear a dust mask for this part of the job.

4. Once you’ve finished rubbing down, use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the rubbing-down dust.

5. If you’re painting a window, or a door with glass panels, mask up the edges of the glass with 25mm masking tape. Use a sharp Stanley-type knife to cut the tape neatly into the corners. This will stop any paint getting on the glass and allows you to flow the paint on, rather than the tentative daubing thats associated with cutting in.

6. Use a tack cloth to remove any dust before you begin painting. This window frame looked clean; the tack cloth proved otherwise.

7. Brush sizes 12mm, 25mm and 50mm will cover most undercoating and glossing jobs. The better the brush the better the finish, so buy the best you can afford.

8. Open and stir the undercoat. We find its better to start painting in the middle and work outwards to avoid putting brush marks in paint that is starting to dry. On a window frame, that means starting on the wood thats closest to the glass.

Once the undercoat is dry (normally two to three hours, but check on the tin), apply another coat on top. Two layers of undercoat should cover any darker paint finishes underneath and also helps to build a better base for the gloss coat.

9. Leave the second undercoat to dry for 24 hours and then rub it down all over with 400-grade wet and dry paper (used dry) wrapped around a sanding block. This process gets rid of any surface imperfections ready for the gloss coat. Use a tack cloth to get rid of the rubbing-down dust.

10. Stir the gloss paint. Load the brush with gloss as shown in the picture and start painting in the middle and work outwards (as in step 8). Allow the gloss to flow out over the surface as you paint – don’t be tempted to over brush the paint or you’ll leave marks. Keep an eye out for runs in the paint (corners are particularly prone to them) and brush them out immediately.

11. Let the gloss harden for at least 24 hours. Avoid closing painted windows and doors completely for this time if possible, otherwise the paint may stick. If you’ve put masking tape on any glass, run a Stanley-type blade along the join between the tape and the wood. This prevents the tape from pulling up the paint as you peel it off. Replace the latches and handles and the job is finished.

(MORE: Decorating Tips for a Professional Finish)

This post first appeared on https://www.homebuilding.co.uk

4 mistakes to avoid when finishing your basement

Finishing your undeveloped basement will give you extra living space. In fact, you can nearly double your functional living space and even add an additional bathroom and ample storage space too. It is a big job, but with detailed planning and the right renovation company on your team, it can have both practical and monetary returns. Without those things, you can find yourself with a lot of headaches and unforeseen expenses.

Mode Contracting in Edmonton specializes in basement renovations. They share some mistakes to avoid when tackling a basement development project:

Not checking for moisture issues.

Your basement doesn’t have to look noticeably wet to have a moisture problem. It could have an issue that only appears when there’s heavy rainfall, or when the snow melts each spring. Just because it looks dry at first glance, doesn’t mean it might not have a problem down the road. And, even the smallest amount of water can do a lot of damage if it is behind the walls. A basement development is a major investment, so make sure you protect it by having a professional inspect for any potential issues before the walls go up. Read how to identify moisture problem spots.

Not waterproofing throughout the development.

If any space in your home is going to flood, it’s likely going to be the basement. Before you put up drywall and other finishes, make sure you’re installing a waterproofing system. This will include vapor barriers, a sump-pump, and proper drainage. This is something Mode Contracting can take care of for you.

Not considering both natural and artificial light.

If you can, put more windows in your living areas downstairs. All bedrooms need to have an egress window to pass building code. If you’re putting in a family room or living room, consider installing a nice bigger window there too. Even if it’s slightly underground, a new window with a large window well will still allow natural light to come in. The more natural light, the better.

You should also greatly consider the type of artificial lighting you are installing downstairs. You don’t want aggressive lighting downstairs, but you also don’t want to be sitting in the dark. Pot lights, with a dimmer, make a great choice for ambient lighting. Then you can add accent and task lighting with table lamps and other fixtures to cozy-up the space. If you have bad lighting downstairs, it will impact the whole ambiance as well as how you feel when you’re down there.

Adding a wet bar that will never be used.

Adding a wet bar is a popular choice for basement renovations, but it also brings up the cost of the renovation. Electrical and plumbing must be installed, along with the kitchenette area itself and all it’s finishings. Consider how often you are actually going to entertain downstairs. How often are you even going to use it yourself? Chances are, it won’t get used very often. Instead, put that money towards other entertainment areas. As an alternative, you can have a bar cart you can wheel out on special occasions.

Basement Renovations in Edmonton

Mode Contracting Inc. is a full-service renovation company in Edmonton that specializes in new basement developments, kitchen renovations, and bathroom renovations. If you’re considering updating any part of your house, give them a call. They’ll provide valuable insight and exceptional service, and you can rest easy knowing the job will be done right!

Contact Mode Contracting Inc. today!

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VE Stone’s countertop fabrication process for custom stone counters

If you’re looking for a custom stone countertop for your kitchen or bathroom spaces, look no further! VE Stone fabricates their countertops on-site in order to tailor-make it to fit your needs. From VE Stone in Vancouver, here is the countertop fabrication process.

Contact and visit their locations

If you’re looking for a broader picture of what they do, or have any questions before you get started on the project, contact their sales staff or visit them in person! Just call 604-371-1812 for assistance.

Plan your project

When planning your project, write down everything you’ll need. Drafting down a template of your current space and what you want it to look like will help the staff get an idea of what you’re looking for. They’ll then be able to work alongside you to digitally template your space and assist you with finalizing the details of the plan.

Choosing a stone and color

The next part of the process is choosing the actual material you’re looking to install. For quartz, they offer numerous different brands, including Caesarstone, Silestone, TCE Stone, Colourquartz, and much more. As well, for granite, they’ll take you to their warehouse to choose your own slab. The choice is ultimately yours. They will work with your budget and style in order to provide you with an estimate.

Cutting the stone

Once the stone has been decided on and digitally mapped out, they get to work on cutting the stone slab. Once the stone has been cut, they go in with the CNC machine to alter the stone for your space. The CNC machine can do many different things like edging, cut-outs, and further shaping. You won’t need to worry about any strange corners or angles your kitchen might have; the machine will take care of it.

Installing the countertop

The final step is the installation process. The staff at VE Stone will make the installation process easy and go smoothly. With their experience, you won’t have to worry about any problems with the countertop in the future. Plus, their installation is seamless!

Countertops in Vancouver

VE Stone is a full-scale fabrication facility. They work on the smallest bathroom job to the largest commercial project. At their facility, located in Surrey BC, they have hundreds of different stone colors for you to select from, including granite, marble, and quartz. You can visit their showrooms, or call them to receive a complimentary estimate.

Interested in a VE Stone countertop? Contact them today!

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Why rubber paving is the best choice for your home

If you need a new driveway or patio, or you’re thinking about a landscaping makeover for the yard, consider rubber paving. It can be used for driveways, walkways, steps, patios, pool decks, sports courts, garage floors, and many other applications.

Prairie Rubber Paving in Calgary and Edmonton share why this option is the best choice for your home:

It is resistant to cracking.

Concrete is the most popular material used for residential driveways, walkways, and patios. While it’s durable, it is susceptible to cracking our prairie climate. This is mainly because it can absorb moisture. When that moisture freezes, it expands and can start cracking the concrete. Once you have a small crack, it’s likely to widen with every freeze cycle.

This doesn’t happen with rubber paving. Rubber and polyurethane are very flexible. Their extreme elasticity helps the materials expand and contract with the ground movement, so even movement underneath caused by freezing and thawing will not affect your rubber surface.

It’s resistant to UV exposure.

We might get cold weather in Alberta, but we still get plenty of sunshine year-round. UV rays can be harmful to many surfaces, causing them to become brittle or their colours to fade. This is not the case with rubber paving. It is resistant to UV rays, and will not crack or fade in direct exposure.

It’s versatile in design.

Rubber paving is available in a wide range of colours. You can have it mimic the look of asphalt with black or dark grey, choose an earthy-tone, or get creative with your paving and select a bright colour and pattern! For driveways, it is popular to select a colour for the main driveway, and a different colour for the side trim. You can also choose between a matte or glossy finish.

If you’re installing a pool deck, sports court or playground deck, these colour customizations will come in handy. Check out some of the examples of how you can create a customized surface for your paving project.

It offers great value for the cost.

Rubber paving is less expensive to install than concrete. It can also be installed over your existing surface, which means you will not have to pay to demolish and dispose of your old driveway or patio. Prairie Rubber Paving offers the highest quality synthetic product at the best price possible. It will be a long-term investment, as your paving will last for years to come, without diminishing in appearance or function.

Rubber Paving in Calgary and Edmonton

Prairie Rubber Paving is Alberta’s premium rubber paving company. Using the highest quality synthetic rubber and polyurethane binders, they create the safest and most durable surfaces on the market. If you have a need for driveway resurfacing, or another residential or commercial project, give them a shout.

Prairie Rubber Paving in Calgary

Prairie Rubber Paving in Edmonton

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Choosing an entry door: fibreglass vs. steel

Your entry doors place an important role in aesthetics, security, and energy efficiency for your home. They also have a good return on investment, according to Remodeling Magazine’s cost vs. value report for 2020. If you spend $1,800 on a new entry door, you can expect to increase your property value by $1,200. If you’re thinking about replacing your entry doors, you have a few things to think about.

Gienow Renovations in Calgary and Edmonton share some information on two entry door options: fibreglass and steel.

Pros and cons of fibreglass doors

Fibreglass entry doors are built to last, resistant to scratching, denting and overall wear and tear. They are very versatile in design. They can have embossed panels or even mimic the look of wood with authentic wood graining. You can paint and stain fibreglass doors. They are low maintenance with great thermal benefits but are more expensive than steel entry doors.

Pros and cons of steel doors

Steel doors are the most affordable option between the two and have been a very popular choice since the 1980’s and 90’s for residential applications. While less expensive, they are still energy efficiency and weather resistant. Unfortunately, steel doors do not offer as many design options like fibreglass, but they are strong, durable, attractive and a great option for those budget-conscious homeowners.

What about wood doors?

Wood doors offer a classic and warm look that homeowners love, but they are not a practical choice for Alberta’s climate, unfortunately. Most homeowners have moved away from wooden exterior doors because our harsh and everchanging weather causes them to warp and wear much faster than their steel and fibreglass counterparts. With innovation in manufacturing, both steel and fibreglass doors offer better thermal performance compared to wood.

If you really love the look of a wood door, consider a fibreglass door that mimics the look of wood. You’ll get the same aesthetics but won’t have to worry about maintenance or an early replacement. Plus, you can paint it a different shade if you decide to change the look of your home’s exterior down the road.

Windows and Doors in Calgary and Edmonton

How your front door looks is important, but how it performs in terms of energy efficiency and security is essential. Gienow Renovations has over 80 years of experience manufacturing doors for Alberta’s specific climate. They use the most durable materials and manufacturing practices to ensure your front entry door is offering maximum protection, security, energy efficiency, and curb appeal.

Gienow Renovations serves both the Edmonton and Calgary regions. They offer windows, doors, siding, and exterior renovations. If you’re in the market for a new entry door, connect with Gienow Renovations.

Gienow Renovations in Edmonton

Gienow Renovations in Calgary

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This post first appeared on https://blog.renovationfind.com

4 things to look for when purchasing new windows

Windows are the number one cause of energy loss in the home. Replacing your old or damaged windows with high-efficiency windows can drastically reduce energy loss, increase energy savings as well as home comfort.

Gienow Renovations in Edmonton and Calgary share some key things to look for when purchasing a new window.

The material the frame is made of.

Window frames come in wood, aluminum, aluminum-clad vinyl, and vinyl. Gienow Renovations is partial to vinyl window frames. Innovative manufacturing has enabled vinyl window frames to be the top choice for both efficiency and affordability. Vinyl frames are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) that offers better thermal protection than aluminum or wood. They come in a range of styles, are durable, long-lasting and low maintenance.

Double pane glass at the minimum.

Do not purchase windows in Alberta that are not at least double pane. It goes without saying, but double panes in a window is the minimal requirement for ENERGY STAR guidelines for efficiency. If your home currently has single-pane windows, an upgrade will greatly enhance your comfort at home and your home’s efficiency.

Choose the right window style for your home and needs.

When it comes to styles of windows, you have plenty of options. Gienow Renovations can help you choose the right style according to your home’s overall design and configuration. Sliding, picture, casement, bow and bay windows are all options. A window technician can take you through all your options and recommend the best choices for aesthetics, efficiency, and function.

Make sure they’re installed properly.

Window installation needs to be done by a knowledgeable and experienced installer like Gienow Renovations. DIY window installation, or hiring someone without the expertise, can lead to a score of problems down the road. New windows are not cheap, so protect that investment by working with a trusted, professional window company like Gienow Renovations. They’ll ensure your new windows are installed properly.

Window Companies in Edmonton and Calgary

Gienow Renovations serves both the Edmonton and Calgary regions. They’ve been manufacturing and installing attractive, high-quality windows and doors since 1947. They have their own manufacturing plant here in Alberta, so you can be sure your new windows can stand up to Alberta’s harsh climate. If you’re due for a window replacement, connect with Gienow Renovations.

Gienow Renovations in Edmonton

Gienow Renovations in Calgary

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This post first appeared on https://blog.renovationfind.com

The DIY Jobs That Could Save you £100s During Coronavirus Lockdown

You can save over £1,000 during the coronavirus lockdown by doing eight simple DIY jobs around the house, according to new findings.

Some of these easy jobs can also help occupy the children, and bring the family together for an activity that can save on costs from bringing in tradespeople.

Research from tradesperson comparison site HaMuch.com calculated the predicted costs homeowners would save if they chose to do home improvement tasks themselves.

The DIY job that will save you the most is painting, which can lead to savings of up to a couple of hundred pounds (depending on the size of your rooms) you’d otherwise pay a tradesperson to do. According to HaMuch.com, you would save £24 an hour at an average of eight hours per room.

Painting the house together as a family could also brighten up and refresh your home. You only need to pay for some paint and brushes, which can be delivered by build merchants. Screwfix and Toolstation are among the builders merchants still operational in some capacity.

(MORE8 Tips for Decorating Your Own House)

The second-biggest saving to be made is through tidying the garden. Hiring a gardener for six hours can cost as much as £174, so doing it yourself is well worth the effort. This goes without saying, but you’ll also get some fresh air and some time outside the house.

Put Lockdown Time to Use

Lockdown represents a perfect opportunity to perform DIY jobs, helping to keep us busy and improve our homes. Many of us now have more time on our hands, and DIY is a great way to make this time well spent. 

That’s why Homebuilding & Renovating has launched Home School, a service providing expert homebuilding tips to help you put this time to good use. Home School will deliver the best information, ideas and advice to anyone looking to create their dream home.

We will also be keeping you abreast of the latest developments within homebuilding and the construction industry with our live blog, Building as Usual

Ultimately, homeowners who treat this time as an opportunity will be able to make the best of it. Founder and CEO of HaMuch.com, Tarquin Purdie, said: “The silver lining for many homeowners is they now have plenty of time on their hands to tackle a whole host of jobs around the house and save money while doing so.

“This is particularly beneficial for those of us that can’t work and can give a real sense of achievement as well as some mental stimulation. Of course, we don’t advise that you attempt any jobs that need professional work such as electrics or gas, amongst other things.”

This table from HaMuch.com lists the savings that can be made though DIY jobs:

DIY job Potential savings
Fix squeaky hinges £30 an hour for the average handyman
Silence creaky floors £30 an hour at an average of 3 hours
Refresh or even add some colour to your rooms £24 an hour at an average of 8 hours per room
Give your old furniture new life £27 an hour for the average carpenter
Redecorate a room with wallpaper Strip wallpaper = £200 per room Wallpapering = £400 per room
Deep clean your bathroom £19 an hour for a cleaner at an average of 3 hours to clean a house
Tiling Average cost of £50 per sq metre with half the average bathroom at 2 square metres
Tidy your garden Gardener at an average of £29 per hour for six hours work
Total Saving £1,341

 

This post first appeared on https://www.homebuilding.co.uk

How to Get Rid of Rubble

If you have a building project coming up, then you are going to need to know how to get rid of rubble.

Here’s the lowdown for everything you need to know for how to get rid of rubble from your site – whether you are recycling, reselling or sending to landfill.

Thirteen percent of construction products are sent to landfill without ever being used on site. There are several options when it comes to rubble removal, and removing other building waste:

The choice you make should be based on what this mess is, your budget, access to the site and the total amount of waste you need to get rid of. Waste on site normally falls into one of six categories:

  • excavated soil from groundworks
  • rubble from demolition
  • waste packaging
  • disused tools, cans and brushes
  • offcuts of building materials
  • unused materals
  • stripped out fittings.

Recycling Site Waste for Rubble Removal

The shift in recent years towards sustainability has placed greater scrutiny on the way we dispose of our surplus building materials. The key is to think carefully, and to be realistic, about what you can reuse either in your own house or give or sell to others.

• General rubble can be compacted on site and reused as hardcore for landscaping purposes.

• Whole bricks and blocks can be used elsewhere — even if you don’t particularly like them, they’re worth saving for the likes of minor landscaping projects.

Depending on the size of the project, you could employ a specialist contractor to manage the recycling of your general waste. They will sort through your waste and separate it – much like the household recycling collection – into reusable items. Visit wrap.org.uk to find out more, or try asking your local authority.

In recent years, council household waste recycling centres have restricted the amount of building waste that you’re allowed to tip free of charge and the rules on disposing of waste at local authority sites are fairly strict. You’re allowed to dispose of waste from building work carried out on your property as long as you’re the person who carried out the work. So if you’re employing builders you’ll need to treat your waste as commercial waste.

Bear in mind that local authorities are charged a landfill tax and so they are keen to get you to recycle as much of your waste as possible.

Anything deemed to be ‘construction waste’ including:

  • rubble
  • roofing materials
  • ceramic tiles
  • earth, soil and turf
  • doors and windows

arriving in a van, pick-up or trailer is likely to be redirected to a waste transfer station where it will be weighed and charged. The rules vary from one council to another, but trying to get round them by making multiple car visits can backfire if the number of visits and the amount of waste being deposited is deemed ‘excessive’.

Even when you turn up in your own car, most waste from construction work, including home DIY projects, may be chargeable if it’s not classified as ‘household waste’. Some rules can appear a little odd, for example basins, WC pans and toilet cisterns might be chargeable, whereas baths might not be.

Charges vary considerably. Some council tips charge as little as £1.50 to dispose of a single WC pan, compared to others that charge more than £10 for the same service. So, it’s worth checking how much your local council tip charges for construction waste before you head down there.

Using Construction Marketplaces for Rubble Removal

Salvage yards and the likes of Gumtree and eBay are all great resources for those trying to get rid of materials and those looking to buy them. One company has clocked their success and created a dedicated construction marketplace which allows users to search for free or reduced-price building materials in their area.

EnviroMate helps users find a home for leftover, unwanted and/or unused materials rather than seeing them go to landfill. This offers a sustainable solution to the vast amounts of waste generated by the construction industry, which shockingly contributes a third of all waste that makes its way to landfill.

Removing Asbestos

If you have found asbestos in your project, it will need to be taken to a licensed asbestos disposal site. Although you can remove it yourself, you should take advice from your local authority first or get in touch with the Asbestos Removal Contractors Association (ARCA), which has details of companies who can carry out the removal for you.

You will then need to have it collected, either by a private company or in some cases by the local authority. Some authorities will remove a small amount for free, while others charge — this varies, but expect to pay around or upwards of £40/200kg.

Using Skips for Rubble Removal

Skips are the most obvious way of getting rid of building detritus. They come in many different sizes, get dropped off and picked up for you, and can be packed to fit in a good amount of site waste.

The size of skip you’ll need will mainly depend on how much rubbish you have, but you will also need to take into account where the skip is going to be located while you fill it and whether you have space for an enormous model. However, where possible, be generous with your space allowance. This is an indication of standard sizes, but most suppliers offer larger sizes if required:

  • 1-2 cubic yards: These measure 0.76m (h) x 1.52m (l) x 1.22m (w) and can take the equivalent of around 25 to 35 black rubbish bags. From £60.
  • 3-4 cubic yards: Measuring 0.97m (h) x 1.83m (l) x 1.29m (w), they take the equivalent of around 40 black bin bags. From £90.
  • 6-8 cubic yards: These measure 1.22m (h) x 3.66m (l) x 1.68m (w). They take the equivalent of around 70 to 80 black bin bags. From around £120.

So, just where will your skip go?

This is important to establish, as you might have to apply to your local authority for a permit first for those skips placed on the road. Some authorities ask that the skip hire company applies, which is obviously less hassle for you.

If you have a driveway that can accommodate a skip then great, but do not assume you own the grass verge in front of your house if you plan on locating the skip there — check first. If you have no room at all for a skip, some companies will wait while you load.

What can you put in a skip?

There are some things you can’t put in a skip, including:

  • Asbestos
  • Tyres
  • Refrigerators and freezers
  • Liquids such as paints, oils or solvents
  • Televisions
  • Light bulbs
  • Chemicals

Plasterboard is generally discouraged because the gypsum it’s made from contains high levels of sulphates which can emit poisonous hydrogen sulphide in landfill. However, it is occasionally accepted as long as it’s dry and separate from other waste.

You may also be asked about quantities of heavier waste like soil and rubble, which may be limited to maximum eight cubic yard skips.

Other practical considerations

  • When booking your skip, tell the hire company how long you want yours left on site for — normally up to a fortnight but longer periods can be negotiated. Allow a couple of days’ notice for delivery and up to a week for collection.
  • Don’t be tempted to overfill your skip. If you pile too much stuff on top, the driver may refuse to take anything but a ‘level load’ on grounds of safety. Although the contents are covered with tarpaulin netting, this has its limits. There is an art to packing skips, and lining the sides with old doors or sheets of wood so that the contents are secure creates a little more cubic capacity. Be aware, though, that skips left unguarded overnight on city streets can mysteriously fill up!
  • Finally, make sure the company you hire is registered as Environment Agency approved and aim to get at least three estimates in order to get the best deal.

Skip Bags for Rubble Removal

Skip bags, otherwise known as rubble bags or rubble sacks, are great for smaller projects, or for when you take on a renovation or move into an old property and want to remove old carpet or furniture.

They cut out the need for trips to the local tip and are easier to find a place for than a skip. They can be bought at many DIY warehouses or online and can then be collected when you have finished filling them (try hippobag.co.uk). Once full, a collection can normally be arranged within five working days.

Prices tend to be cheaper than a skip, with Hippobag’s ‘Hipposkip’, which takes 4.5 cubic yards (which would take approximately 1.5 tonnes or one whole kitchen), costing £140.

On the downside, skip bags take less waste than either a skip or a grab lorry. Where they really score is in terms of convenience, especially for building works on smaller plots with limited access. Collection is via trucks with on-board hiab cranes that can lift the bags over walls and fences within four metres of the kerb.

Removing Rubble Using Grab Lorries

Those undertaking very large-scale building works – digging foundations or demolishing sections of a building, for example – might consider hiring a grab lorry as a cost-effective alternative to a skip. They tend to come in three sizes:

  • four-wheel
  • six-whee
  • eight-wheel.

A four-wheel lorry can usually carry one skip load (around 9 tonnes), while an eight-wheel can take around three skip loads (or 18 tonnes). Considering that prices start from around £300 for an eight-wheel grab lorry (plus VAT), they are a much more cost-effective way of getting rid of larger loads than a skip.

They also take much of the hard work out of rubbish removal. Rather than having to load a skip, a grab lorry’s hydraulically operated extending crane can do it for you, scooping it up and depositing it straight onto the truck. And with a reach of around eight metres, they should be able to pick up waste over most walls and fences.

They are a handy option for those struggling to know where to locate a skip, although you’ll still need to find a place to dump all the ‘grabbed’ waste — which can mean a great big pile of rubble on your previously pristine driveway or lawn. Many grab lorries have a good reach (of around 8m) from the side of the lorry, so are able to collect waste from over hedges and fences, and around obstacles such as lampposts.

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This post first appeared on https://www.homebuilding.co.uk

How to Balance Radiators

Having spent more time at home lately, you may have noticed that some of your radiators are hot and others are cold, which has lead to some of your rooms being warmer than others, creating warm and cold spots throughout your home.

Well, it might be that your radiators need balancing. Simply put, this means that you need to adjust the radiator valves to make sure there’s an even distribution of heated water making its way to each of the radiators in your house.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to balance radiators.

Here’s What You’ll Need:

How to Balance Radiators — Step by Step Guide

Step 1

Bleed all radiators. Turn off the central heating (1) and allow the radiators to cool.

Step 2

Remove the lockshield (2). It will usually have a push-on cap or one that is secured with a screw through the top.

Older models will have a wheelhead valve (3) on the other side — used to turn the radiator on/off. Newer radiators will have a thermostatic valve (4) instead of a wheelhead valve.

Step 3

Open up the valves on all the radiators in the house by turning them anti-clockwise (5). Wheelhead and thermostatic valves can be turned easily by hand, but the lockshield will need a plastic adjuster to open it up (these tend to come with new lockshield valves). You can also use an adjustable spanner.

Step 4

Turn the central heating back on and note down the order the radiators heat up (6). Those nearest the boiler normally get hot first. If you’ve got a lot of radiators, get an assistant to help. Turn the heating off and wait while the radiators cool down.

Step 5

When the radiators are cool, switch the heating back on and go to the first radiator on your list. Turn the lockshield valve clockwise until it is closed and then open it by a quarter of a turn. Once the radiator has warmed up, take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to one of the valves (7).

Step 6

Now take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to the valve on the other end of the radiator and open the lockshield valve gradually until there’s a 12°C difference between now and the reading you took in step 5 (allow a couple of minutes after each adjustment for the temperature to change).

The temperature figures indicated in step 5 and step 6 are relevant to the radiator shown – don’t take them as any kind of optimum figure – it’s the 12°C difference in temperature at the valves that counts.

Step 7

Check the rest of the radiators in the system following the order in the list. The further you move away from the boiler, you’ll find the lockshield valve will have to be opened more. The last radiator may need to have the lockshield valve fully open to work at full efficiency.

Your radiators are now balanced and should work perfectly.

Main image credit: Getty Images


This year marks the very special 30th anniversary of Homebuilding & Renovating. Over the next 12 months, we’ll be sharing some of our favourite memories and bringing you special content to mark the occasion. Thank you for celebrating with us.

This post first appeared on https://www.homebuilding.co.uk

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