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By learning how to board a loft, you can not only drastically increase the storage potential of your loft, but also make it safer and more stable to move around in. This is especially useful if you are short of storage space in your home – the loft is often completely underused, so if you’re not planning on turning it into habitable space with a loft conversion, then adding loft boards and using it for effective storage can be a great solution.

Loft boards are fixed together relatively easily, but working withing the confines of the loft’s available space can make boarding a loft a tricky endeavour. Do heed the safety advice detailed below and only attempt the task if you are capable. If not, hire a professional.

If you want to board your loft, follow this step-by-step guide.

How to Board a Loft: Step-by-Step

Before you start:

• Don overalls, gloves and a dust mask for protection, and finish off with a pair of trainers to aid agility in the loft
• Set up a temporary work platform on a piece of board set across the ceiling joists — it is safer, and more comfortable, than trusting your balance

Step One: Measure Up

Measure the area you plan to board out (multiply the width of the loft by its length). Take measurements in metres, this makes it easier when you are buying boards.

The 1,220 x 320mm boards come in packs of three and cover 1.17m² per pack. The 2,400 x 600mm boards are sold separately and cover 1.44m² each. Always add a 20% contingency on top of your final square metre figure to allow for awkward cuts.

Before you buy the boards, check the edges for damage. The tongues-and-grooves are vulnerable to clumsy handling, so be very picky when choosing.

Step Two: Assess the Insulation

Before you start laying boards, check the depth of your insulation. Building Regulations guidelines recommend a minimum 270mm thickness of insulation blanket. But joists are usually no more than 100mm deep, so this would be impossible to achieve and still put a floor on top. Furthermore, squashing insulation down to fit joist height is a bad idea as this halves it’s effectiveness — doubling your heat loss.

The best solution is to build a raised loft floor above the insulation (details of which are shown below). You can still board directly on to the joists if you want, but it is worth noting that this would not pass a building control inspection, because you wouldn’t have the full 270mm depth of insulation required by regulations. Whatever you do, make sure you put as much insulation beneath the boards as possible.

(Do note that if you board directly on to the joists, you run the risk of causing interstitial condensation. This is where moisture condenses on the underside of the boards and drips down, causing damp. To avoid this you need to raise the boards up and permit a flow of air between the insulation and the boards. Only board directly on to the joists if you know there is no risk of condensation forming in your loft).

Step Three: Lay the First Board

If you intend to board directly on to the joists instead of having a raise floor, then start by placing the first board across the joists.

If the board overhangs mark it at the centre of the last joist it crosses and make a straight cut at this point with a jigsaw. This allows the board that will butt up to its end to be supported by the joist.

Step Four: Stagger the Joins

For maximum strength the boards must be laid in a staggered pattern, in such a way that neighbouring joins do not line up. Lay a full board next to the first one and then mark or measure if it needs to be cut (SEE STEP 3).

Step Five: Fix in Place

Cut the second board (if necessary) and slide it into position with the first board, making sure the tongue-and-groove is fully connected to form an almost invisible join. Fix with two or three screws along the join.

Step Six: Fill in the Gaps

Measure, cut and fit infill pieces as you go to complete the run of boards. Slide them into position with gloved hands (the cut edges can be sharp).

Lay a block of wood along the outer edge of the board and tap it with a hammer if the tongue-and-groove connection creates too much resistance. This method prevents damage to the vulnerable board edges.

Things to note Rather than having a run of uniform ceiling joists to attach to, older houses may have a mixture of old roof joists and joists put up to support a more modern ceiling. This can create a riot of different levels and cause problems with fixing boards. If this is the case, it may save time and make sense to go down the raised floor route instead. Wiring in the loft often takes the most direct route from source to outlet. This means there could be wires strewn directly where you plan to lay a board. If there is enough slack in the wire, the joist can be notched and the wire run beneath the board. If you decide to do this, mark the position of the wire clearly on top of the board and make absolutely sure that you are not trapping the wire before you fix it down. A better alternative is to fix the wire with clips where it can be seen. If there is no slack at all in the cable then you may find that you have to disconnect the wire at its source before lengthening it using a junction box and some extra wire. You are likely to come across the tops of light fittings while you are installing your loft boards. You can cut the panel to make access to the light easy and make a removable infill panel if the light falls mid-board. Be aware that recessed spotlights generate a lot of heat, so make sure that any additional insulation material you have fitted is pulled well away from these fittings to prevent a fire hazard. However, doing this will reduce the insulating properties and counteract any efforts to limit heat loss. It is now common practice to fit heat diffusers, or completely seal the area around the light fitting.

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Electricians are the friendliest tradespeople in the UK, as voted for by 75% of respondents in a new survey.

Tradespeople can play a significant role in a self build or renovation, but taking on a tradesperson for the first time can always be a gamble, at least in terms of how friendly they are. 

My Job Quote surveyed 1,482 Brits to determine who they believed to be the friendliest tradespeople and which attributes they appreciated in the people they hired. 

Electricians were reported to be the friendliest, gaining three-quarters of the vote, while gardeners/garden designers were voted as being friendly by 71% of respondents. Plumbers also emerged positively having been described as friendly by 68%.

It’s not good news for tilers though. Only 23% of respondents categorised tilers as friendly, while only 29% considered kitchen specialists received the ‘friendly’ vote.  

The Importance of Trust

Manners and behaviour can often leave a lasting impression, and the efforts of tradespeople to be courteous and conscientious were reflected in these results.

A sizeable 79% said they valued tradespeople who provided them with a valid reason and apology for not turning up having arranged a time. 

Additionally, 84% said they appreciated tradespeople who did not get annoyed when they asked for an update on how the project was going. 

Self build and renovation can be a messy job, and 72% reported valuing tradespeople who took the time and initiative to clean up any mess they had created upon completion. 

(MORE: The Complete Guide to Renovating a House)

Carl Meredith, managing director of My Job Quote, said: “When hiring a tradesperson, Brits want to feel reassured that they are trusting someone who gets the job done properly and efficiently. A crucial part of the service that really matters to Brits is the level of care and attention that a tradesperson will provide them. 

“Brits want to deal with someone they can easily communicate and work with – friendliness is a vital characteristic when assessing and hiring a tradesperson.” 

Having built one oak framed home using Border Oak for the design and construction of the frame, Wendy and Steve decided it was time to move on to the next. “We had recovered from our last self build and got the ‘itch’ again,” explains Wendy. “I was pregnant with our second child and we had outgrown the house.

“We began to put out the feelers for land and the stars just seemed to align. We came across this site and I remember looking at it and saying ‘this is too good to be true’ — it was like a ready-made plot.”

Before it was purchased by Border Oak, the plot was part of the land behind the original landowner’s cottage, and was overgrown and full of trees. “Buying it from Border Oak saved on the stress of planning as a design for a barn-style house on the plot had already been approved when we bought it,” explains Wendy. “The design ticked all the boxes — we did move the position of a few doors and walls internally, but externally everything has stayed the same.”

Wendy and Steve knew that they would benefit from an open-plan layout, so several of the amendments that they made to the original plans involved moving walls and repositioning rooms in order to create an easy flow for their family life.

A Customised Approach

The design for the new house featured softwood timber weatherboarding and traditional clay roof tiles externally. Due to the slightly sloping nature of the site, there is a small step up to the front door.

“We noticed when groundworks began that all of us would congregate at the front of the house as this is where the sun really hits,” explains Wendy. “We decided to create a front veranda because of this — plus any time you can fit in somewhere to de-mud boots in England is a bonus!”

Internally, spaces are largely open plan on the ground floor. The single-storey garage section at the front of the house is a later addition, designed by Steve and Wendy and built by Steve and his father. This space consists of a fourth bedroom, accessed via the utility room in the main house, a workshop space with external doors, and a fifth bedroom annexe, accessed via loft steps.

The Hunters moved out of their old house and into rented accommodation during the build.

“We liked that Border Oak let you take on as much or as little of the work as you want,” says Wendy. “They constructed the watertight shell, including oak frame, SIPs, weatherboarding, roofing, most of the carpentry, doors, windows, and driveway. We did some of the groundworks, all the baseworks, brickwork, drainage, part of the first fix carpentry, and the landscaping. Thankfully Steve is no stranger to a building site and his Dad worked in the trade for over 40 years.”

“We also took on the internal fit out, except the electrics, plumbing and drylining which were carried out by Border Oak approved contractors. Steve would finish work and go to the house to carry on into the night. At weekends we went as a family — taking fish and chips to Steve in the evenings.”

Designing to Suit Style and Budget

At the centre of the ground floor layout lies the entrance hall and staircase, with a flexible study/playroom located behind the stair wall. To one side of the hallway lies a large kitchen diner that opens out to the garden through French doors, while to the other is the living room. All of these spaces flow into one another, thanks to an absence of doors and the inclusion of partial walls.

The oak frame has been left exposed throughout the ground floor, lending character and charm to the spaces, while on the first floor only the rafters are on show in order to make furniture placement simpler.

“We always have a conservative budget when it comes to interiors,” says Wendy. “I never forgo quality pieces that get a lot of use, but I make small compromises elsewhere to even out the finances.

“It’s so satisfying knowing that not only does your hard work and considered choices allow you to live in a bespoke home that you love, but also one that has allowed you to build equity in from the start.”

Among the many things the Hunters love about their new home is how energy efficient it is. While they have underfloor heating throughout the ground floor, there are no radiators at all upstairs. “The house is so thermally efficient,” says Wendy. “We never touch the thermostat — the house is always at an even, comfortable temperature.”

The entire build, including land and landscaping, came in at £400k — a hugely impressive achievement and one that shows what can be accomplished through a combination of thorough research and canny decision making, as well as a considerable amount of elbow grease.

“We are a family who is not afraid to get stuck in,” says Wendy, who found herself in the dead of winter with no heating, helping paint the entire interior walls of the house day after day.

“Self-building is one of the hardest things you can do, but the sense of achievement at the finish line is so rewarding. We got to spend time as a family coming together, literally getting our hands dirty, for one common goal. We will always look back on these times with the fondest of memories,” says Wendy.

“After each build, you are so exhausted that you need to come up for air for a while, but after about a year we feel our strength coming back to us, and we start to crave yet another project. We shall see what lies ahead and if the stars align for us again!”

Two in five Brits can’t afford to buy a house in their hometown, according to new research.

The findings from Good Move, which surveyed 2,000 UK adults, also revealed that 18-24 years olds are the least confident that they’ll ever be able to afford property in the area they grew up.

On average, Brits want to live 21 miles away from their parents, but this is least achievable for people born in Cardiff and Norwich.

Over half of people who grew up in Cardiff think that local houses are outside of their financial reach, while 43% reported being unable to afford a house in Norwich.

Those born in Sheffield and Bristol feel that they have the best chance of being able to buy a home in their city, with only 26% and 28% believing this isn’t possible. 

A Change is Needed

The stark reality for many young adults is that affordable housing is stagnating, and the Conservative Party has been unable to achieve its target of building 300,000 new homes per year. 

In August this year, housing secretary Robert Jenrick revealed that the government was considering a scheme to give first-time buyers a 20% discount if they purchase property in the area where they grew up. This, however, was not elaborated upon in the Conservatives’ pre-2019 General Election manifesto. 

With nearly two in five (37%) respondents reporting being unlikely to ever be able to afford to buy a house in their hometown, the research indicates that such an initiative would be most welcomed. 

Self and custom build offers young adults a more financially attractive route into moving into a new home. Self builders typically enjoy a profit of 25% on their investment, as reported in the Homebuilding & Renovating Self & Custom Build Market Report 2017, and homes can be self built to be more environmentally (and financially) sustainable in the long term.

(MORE: Self Build: The Complete Guide)

The 10 cities where people are most unlikely to be able to afford to buy property in their childhood area, via Good Move, are:

1) Cardiff	51%
2) Norwich	43%
3) Belfast	41%
4) Nottingham	40%
5) Manchester	38%
= Southampton	38%
= London	38%
8) Liverpool	37%
9) Leeds	34%
= Newcastle	34%

Our project takes the rather tired property mantra ‘You can’t change the location but you can change everything else’ to heart. We bought this house for its site, with lovely views front and back, large garden, its position, the village, local schools, nearby pub and all the rest of it. And we changed everything else.

Having identified a particular part of Staffordshire/Derbyshire, we kept an eye out for plots and houses of potential in three or four villages. The one we ended up buying was one we’d scanned past on Rightmove lists many times before. The images were poor and the ‘what on earth is it?’ question remained unanswered.

(MORE: Finding a Plot: All You Need to Know)

It was only when, with a deadline of our impending house sale, school admissions and Sarah’s job move bringing an exciting bit of added focus to our search, that we looked more closely. It was ugly, for sure – a late 1960s self build, natch? – but we both rather liked the long and low horizontal shape of the house and could see something there that we could build on.

Next up we decided to settle in and see what the house felt like. For a good 18 months we lived there quite miserably, agreeing on its weaknesses and eyeing up the potential changes we could make.

We put up with ant infestations and the slightly embarrassing decoration choices of previous owners; and our hero son put up with a baking hot/chillingly cold bedroom, too.

Getting to Know the House

But slowly we learned about the house. Fools rush in and all that. We identified several key problem areas: a pokey upstairs which, despite having three bedrooms, didn’t really do the 330m² house justice; generally poor energy efficiency and build quality; and the classic problem of lots of rooms coupled with an odd layout by today’s standards.

What was needed was a remodel, both inside and out, rather than an extension for extension’s sake. The house was big enough. It just didn’t work very well. In addition, of course, everything needed refurbishing and, to be frank, why would anyone want to live in a house designed for someone else?

In overall design terms, we wanted something that spoke to the origins of the house but gave us a bit of what we liked. Luckily, that all married together — we both love mid-century house design particularly with a dose of American energy.

We’d also identified a few other things we wanted to inject: internal horizontal views to make the most of the long/low shape; much-needed kerb appeal, particularly to cover up the rather dubious cladding mix; loads of light and a lovely flow; and, importantly, flexibility as our family grew here.

(MORE: How to add space and value to your home)

We needed expert design help. Pete Tonks, longtime contributor to the magazine, chum and the designer of some of my favourite homes, came up with a scheme that got us to where we could get excited, thanks in large to the addition of a crazy-but-genius glass and timber tower to the front.

(MORE: How to choose an architect)

We used a couple of other designers to shape the scheme (Pete didn’t do building drawings at the time and, anyway, we needed to bring the whole thing in a bit for budget reasons) — Aaron Chetwynd and Jon Grew, who helped immensely in bringing the project to life.

Finding the Right Builder

Securing planning permission was straightforward. We are in a conservation area but Pete’s scheme, using organic, natural materials and quite clearly an improvement on what was there before, went through in eight weeks.

(MORE: Conservation areas)

That aside, the project only really came to life for us on meeting (through recommendation) our builder, Ben Schuck. Ben is about my age and while I’ve been writing about building for the last 20 years he’s actually been building houses and specialising in timber (which would form the basis for the extended elements of the home).

He contributed massively, in two main ways. Firstly, he does what you want your builder to do: sucks up stress and solves problems. Things went awry, money was tight, we had a few head-scratching moments. Ben took all that on himself and when you’re left with half a house with no roof and a feeling that you may well have taken on too much, having someone to say “it will be fine and here’s why” is vital.

Secondly, he really took time to understand where we were coming from in design terms, and as a result the house is better because of his interest.

(MORE: How to find a builder)

We moved out for the duration of the build to our wonderfully accommodating and patient in-laws, who even cooked us meals and put up with our children.

We’re very lucky with our parents, who were more than happy to help decorate, hang doors and the like. And although there is still a way to go – with the landscaping still a major upcoming project and another, final, bit of remodelling still going on as I write – it is getting there.

We’ve been a mix of many things: lucky, determined, ambitious, brave and foolhardy occasionally, too. We’ve made some mistakes. We haven’t made a fortune by redeveloping this house in the way we might have done if we had built from scratch. But every time I see it, I feel happier.

Those little views through the internal glazing from room to room are uplifting. Every time the family gathers in that nice open kitchen I love it more. Every time I look up in the tower and see the sky through the huge rooflight I feel a little bit more alive. And that is why we do it, isn’t it?

When it comes to loft conversion ideas, the best ones alleviate space pressures on your home, while adding valuable and habitable space to the property without the need to extend. Done well, it’ll also add significant value to your home.

The best loft conversion ideas will work with the often odd angles and sloping ceilings of the space, and will include provisions for the ingress of natural light. You’ll also need to think about how you will heat and insulate the loft effectively.

If you are looking for an in-depth guide to converting your loft, check out our loft conversion beginner’s guide.

But before you begin your conversion, think carefully about the best use for the space. Here are some clever loft conversion ideas that will get those creative juices flowing.

Flood a Loft Living Room with Natural Light

An extra living room in the loft space is a great idea — perhaps you have older children who might appreciate their own space or maybe you like the idea of a second TV room or just a chill out space to escape up to at the end of a long day.

There are a couple of things to consider in a loft living space. Natural light is important here and being up high provides a great opportunity to take advantage of your views.

Think about whether you could incorporate some full-height glazing, either fixed or opening. French or sliding doors opening out to a Juliet balcony mean light, fresh air and a sense of space can all be achieved, but the feasibility of adding these will depend on the type of conversion you are carrying out.

Use Your Loft as a Place for Your Hobbies

The loft is the perfect spot for a games room, hobbies room or den. Take time to really consider what you will be using the space for — a home cinema or music room will have different lighting requirements than a hobby space, for example.

If the activities taking place here are likely to be noisy, give some thought to soundproofing. You need not only to consider footfall noise but, if you are in a terrace or semi-detached house, the transference of noise from one house to the next. There are plenty of ways to add soundproofing:

• Thermal insulation in walls, ceilings and floors provides noise insulation, as well as thermal
• High-density acoustic plasterboard acts as a good sound blocker
• A high-density acoustic membrane helps prevent sound transfer between walls and ceilings
• Mineral wool between floor joists also helps — acoustic mineral wool offers triple the density of standard loft insulation, giving a good sound absorbing layer and thermal insulation
• In music rooms, adding foam tiles to walls and ceilings will increase sound absorption
• Consider triple-glazed windows where the new room will generate high noise levels
• Use carpet as opposed to hard flooring
• Any new plumbing should include acoustic pipe insulation

Install a Loft Bar for At-Home Entertaining

If you love to entertain at home, then a home bar is a great loft conversion idea. It’ll work in any size loft space and you can use any sloping ceilings or odd angles to your advantage when it comes to storage or seating.

Go bold with colour, plants and soft furnishings, or keep things neutral for a more understated look. If you have opportunity to create a roof terrace, then choose the same flooring for both the indoor and outdoor area to make them feel like one cohesive space.

Add Outside Space with a Loft Terrace

If you really want to ramp up the wow factor of your home, then creating some outdoor space as part of your loft conversion is a sure way to do it.

Whether you are embracing upside down living or creating the ultimate master suite, this can be a great way to bring the outside in. Choose similar flooring for both the interior and the outside area to maximise the feeling of space.

Turn Your Loft into a Kid Zone

Creating a designated space where children can enjoy their toys and hobbies not only helps to keep a lid on clutter throughout the rest of the house, but can also be a great idea for a loft conversion.

Bespoke built-in storage will help to keep clutter under control, and keeping walls and floors light will help a smaller space feel bigger. Bursts of colour on feature walls (or ceiling slopes) can help to zone the room, while bean bags and cushions in contrasting colours will provide flexible comfort.

You can also add in a dedicated space for children to do their homework too.

Dedicate the Loft to a Master Bedroom

Converting a loft into a bedroom is a hugely popular choice, adding value as well as useful extra space.

Particular consideration should be given to blinds when creating a bedroom — the light that comes in from roof windows tends to be bright and you don’t want to be woken at the crack of dawn.

There are several options when it comes to choosing blinds for roof windows — but in a bedroom, a blackout blind is a must. Choose one that is designed to prevent light seeping in from the sides. Both Velux and Blinds 2go offer a large range of blackout blinds. Take a look at Velux’s blackout energy blinds which are designed to also improve window insulation and the Duo Blackout Blind which allows you to choose whether you want to completely block light or allow in softly diffused light.

You will also need to provide clothes storage. Under-eaves storage, using space too low for freestanding cupboards, rails or shelving, is a great idea. Alternatively, look into having fitted wardrobes made to suit your specific space.

Always Make Space for Bathroom Facilities

It can be really useful to locate bathroom facilities in a loft conversion. A loft bedroom usually warrants more extensive bathroom facilities, whereas a study or games room might only need a toilet and basin.

A loft bathroom doesn’t have to take up much space, but make sure there is sufficient headroom. A minimum floor space of around 1 x 2.6m is sufficient for a shower room with WC and basin — head height will be required over the shower, but the ceiling can slope where the toilet cistern is.

A bathroom with a standard-sized bath will need to be at least 1.7 x 2.3m but ceiling heights are less of a concern. You will also need to consider the expense of extending plumbing and waste pipes up into the loft, as well as incorporating ventilation in the form of an extractor fan.

Aim to keep the new soil pipe in line with the existing pipe for bathrooms on the lower floors — which is an easier task than putting in a new one. If you can’t connect into an existing soil pipe, you could use flexible bore waste pipes and a pumped unit with a macerator. It may be necessary to move the header tank for your plumbing system higher in order to create enough pressure for the new taps or showerhead in the loft. In fact, you might find you need to fit a mains pressure plumbing system, with either a combi boiler for instant hot water on demand or a boiler and unvented cylinder.

If you plan on installing a walk-in shower, use a preformed tray with an integrated trap. The whole floor will need to be tanked (this will need to extend up the walls by 100mm) so that water only escapes down the trap.

Utilise Space in Your Home Office with Bespoke Furniture

Work from home? A loft conversion is the ideal spot for a home office. A few things to consider when it comes to loft conversions intended for this use — you will need to consider where your desk will be positioned in relation to windows, and ensure you have enough power points.

Consider blinds that allow light in but prevent glare on your computer screen, such as Velux’s pleated blinds that allow in a softly diffused light.

Depending on the space you have available, you might also want to consider making space for a small kitchenette or toilet to avoid going up and down the stairs too regularly.

Jo Dyson has completely redesigned her London flat, creating a ‘reverse living’ loft extension, with the bedrooms and bathroom on the first floor and the kitchen and living space on the new top floor.

The new loft space now houses an open plan living room, kitchen and dining area, with bi-fold doors opening onto the south-facing roof terrace.

On warmer days, when the bi-fold doors are pushed back, it joins the living room to the outside and creates a feeling of an extended relaxing space.

(MORE: How to get open plan design right)

Main image: Velux